Diagnostics 

My first lead climb in J-Tree! Sharp! Tape up and welcome to J-Tree! This route reminds me of the East Slab on the Dome in Boulder Canyon, but this is a more direct line and a more solid, consistant crack. Jam up and go. Eventually, the crack peters out, and it gets "frictiony", so beginner leaders should put in a piece before leaving the crack! Jam and go, and have fun!

this route seems harder than 5.6.

The start of this climb is somewhat intimidating looking for a 5.6 climb, but the crack eats up pro and good climbing follow for a nice short route. Very fun then as fun downclimb to the right gets you back to the base.

The start was a little hard, physically, as the two walls leaned out to prevent a good stem on the polished rock. Still, the lie-back technique was brute force, but not tricky there, so it was not really a technical move over 5.6 or 5.7- just physically hard.

This has to be one of the cooler 5.6s in the park. Oh yeah! Walk off down to the right...

As a corollary to Chris' "A good choice on a warm day as it gets plenty of shade", this is a poor choice on a cold day as it gets no sun whatsoever.

Start the first 10-15' with a stem or a lieback. Stem worked great for me but my legs are a little longer. From there you can get a great stance for most of the rest of the climb by left foot in the crack. The first 15' is the crux and probably more like 5.7 as you need to be sensitive about where you stem - the feet arent that great.

You could pretend the right arete isnt there with huge handholds and climb it like a nice 5.7 hand crack. Its probably 5.5 with the arete/face holds. This is a good route for practicing hand jams.

The "walk off" is a 3rd/4th class patina plate/semi-chimney downclimb or 5th class patina plate downclimb to the climbers right.

Be judicious with your feet at the start and don't take the grade for granted (if you're leading 5.7 to 9). It is steep an strenusous for several moves at the start with slick feet (despite the very sharp rock for your hands). I blew off but fortunately my gear held (a gold Alien!) and I "only" shredded my fingers on the very sharp rock. Debrided, taped-up and finished the route (and several others over the next few days). Very good climb nonetheless.

Fun Climb with a low crux. Nick onsighted. Exciting down climb.

Got spanked by this climb. I kept blowing it at the crux and flying right off. My girlfriend then tried and got the second piece in, then are friend Don finally finished the lead.

In between our lame attempts, two guys came through and soloed it quite beautifully.

This was a final trip for the season to Josh. I think it was just her way of letting us know who's boss.