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Hunk Rock
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Hunky Dory 

5.10a

   

FA: Bob Gaines & Alan Bartlett, 2/97
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 48 page views

Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 28, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Hunk Rock, East Face


Description 

Begin about 150 ft up and right from Death Of A Decade (5.10a). A crackless dihedral to slab.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor



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By Murf
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b

First bolt is "a move" up, with a bad landing ( slotted chimney ). It was obviously placed from the highest stance, but IMO is poorly placed for a 5.10a leader. Granted we are only talking about a foot or two, but it seems silly to put in a new line with and anchor and all, with a potentially bad ground fall.

That said, the climbing is discontinous, with a fun stemming dihedral ( 2 bolts ) leading to a easy section to a short slab section ( 2 bolts ). The first section really works your stemming technique, good route to work it with.