BETA PHOTO: Rat Rock from the nature trail. The top of the dam...
Description
Best approached by walking axcross the top of the dam. Start left of The Arraignment (5.10a) and climb a right-facing corner (5.7) to a ledge with bolt anchor. The 2nd pitch traverses left and up slabby face, 8 bolts to a gear belay (shared with Bad Lizards and The Arraignment). Descent is a scramble off to the east.
By C Miller Administrator Feb 19, 2005 rating: 5.10b
A nice addition to the crag, this route features well-protected, steep slab climbing on crisp edges. The nice location and fun moves earn this route three stars out of five.
By C Miller Administrator Feb 25, 2005 rating: 5.10b
The bolts mentioned for the anchor of this route (also shared by The Arraingment, False Rat Ledge and Bad Lizards) have been chopped. Too bad, because they were in place since 1982 and I even replaced them at the same time as the bolts on Bad Lizards and The Arraingment (1997/98).
The bolts aren't noted in either Randy's or Al's guide which might have led somebody to believe they were new, even though they were unobtrusively in place for 15+ years.
I have redpointed many 10b sport routes at J-Tree but didn't get close on this one at the start of the 2nd pitch! I'll say it again, this is NOT a 10b and 10c could be a sandbag. Once I got done dicking around on the first 2 bolts I loved the rest and found it a spicy lead for the finish after the leftward traverse. Cool route, I'll be back!
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