If you like attention from tourist, this climb puts you in the spotlight being just across the Barker Dam from the popular nature trail. No particular move on this route might be remembered, however, the position by the water and the length and moderate difficulty of it all makes it a must do. The second half of the route could be considered difficult to protect for some so this may not be appropriate for the fledgling trad leader.
Protection
A light standard J-Tree rack will be enough. 1"-3" for the first half and smaller cams for the upper. I recall there being a bolt at the end where the crack peters out before the summit slab. Two bolt anchor at the top and walk off.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 11, 2005 rating: 5.8
A decent route that gets lots of sun and very little traffic. There were no problems protecting this climb if I recall, and as such would recommend it to all. One star out of five.
The line shown in the Vogel guide is incorrect, as the climb is actually much further left and starts on the other side of the dam (see the Bartlett guide). That said, the obvious question is - what's the climb shown in Randy's book?
The picture I have on P.277 of the Vogel guide seems to have the correct line for the route...
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 11, 2005 rating: 5.8
Rat Ledge is incorrectly depicted as the left-facing corner just right of The Arraignment (5.10a), a decent but somewhat contrived bolted slab that starts in a flake, which means you climbed another route.
The real Rat Ledge starts on the west side of the dam, has a jog (crux) about mid-height and is a continuous crack the entire way.
The description you give of the crack petering out fits with what's shown in Randy's guide, but doesn't fit with the real route. The fact the route was aided first and later freed is something else to consider. Certainly an obvious feature but not Rat Ledge...Rat Crack maybe?
The route shown in the 1992 guide as Rat Ledge is in fact NOT Rat Ledge, but rather a route called False Rat Ledge (5.8) established by Dave Haber & Joe Dietrick in 1987.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 11, 2005 rating: 5.8
Rat Rock
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