A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>
The far right side of this wall is closed due to the presence of Native American rock art.
BETA PHOTO: "Rockwork Orange" follows the obvious, overhanging...
Description
This route is totally awesome in its difficulty. It is a stunning line, the most impressive on the whole east face of this rock. Start by bouldering up directly under the bolt, some long reaches required through the grainy rock here. After clipping the bolt, do a very tricky mantle (feels like V4) and then move left to sloping ledge. Once you get into the overhanging corner, place some gear and try stemming your way to the top. Mantling out is easy. The crux is starting the stemming, may be easier with tiny fingers, Mike said the grade was just an estimate, they really did not have a good idea of it. This climb is rarely done, and it is much harder than the grade would suggest. Easily toproped now from the bolt anchor.
Protection
One new 3/8" stainless bolt, then small TCU's from #1 to #4, stainless two bolt anchor on top.
I've always been left with the impression that this route is fairly scary ( an "s" or whatever ). Have I been misinformed ( again )?
By Chris Miller Administrator Mar 14, 2003 rating: 5.11d
Great climb that features a bouldery move past the bolt (5.11) into a flared corner system (5.11 and funky) where I recall tenuous chimneying on the lip of the corner instead of stemming.
I thought that the route was great. I did it when it had a buttonhead or some other 1/4 " rusty bolt. So I pulled past the move, which seemed like the crux. Upper overhang was really cool, and about 5.11a (i thought....)
Rockworks Rock
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