Mike Morley traversing Chemical Warfare. Photograp...
Description
Refer to Room To Shroom description for approach information. Start 50' uphill (left) of 'Shroom. Gain finger/hand crack by bouldering up 8' (poor landing - ankle breaker). Move right along finger crack and finish as for Room To Shroom. Descend as for 'Shroom.
Protection
Pro to 2_ (.75 size helpful). A small stopper helps to protect both leader and follower on the final 20' traverse.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 5, 2004 rating: 5.8+
I found this route to be on par with the harder 8's or easier 9's at J-tree. this was really not any harder than Room To Shroom itself, which I thought was easy for a 9. I'm dead serious.The boulder move at the bottom is a single step up on positive hands and a good side-step for feet to gain jugs that go the rest of the way. Pro is cams .5"-3.5" (wide stuff just before turning the corner).Good route- but not a 5.10 at all.
if its really windy out as when i did this route, a good variation is to go up room to shroom and traverse into chemical warfare, fun for the leader and the second...
Not .10b if you approach the crack via the face holds, but maybe if you start at the far left where it's tight jams and steeper? It does seem kind of pointless to do this however.
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