This climb lies more or less in the center of the slabby west face (this is the one seen on the approach). A prominent roof will be seen low down in the center of the formation as will a wide light-colored dike higher up and to the right.
Begin near the right side of the previously mentioned roof and climb a slab up to the base of the roof. Set a piece (small cams work well) and pull the roof (crux) exiting onto more slabby face. From here seven bolts lead up and then left and up to a bolted anchor/rap.
Almost a sport route except for the piece needed under the roof, this is a well-protected climb that has good moves on good rock. If you have a 50 meter rope be careful as the rap is about 85'.
Protection
7 bolts, pro to 1", bolted anchor/rap (all bolts 3/8").
Photos of An Eye For An Eye And A Route For A Route Slideshow
First time I climbed this I pussed on the crux lip. We climbed X-Tits and TRed it and I figured out the toe work and came back to lead it (and pucker) another year and loved the feeling. Such a great route with a beautiful view.
A good route, but the rock feels a little loose in places. Seemed harder and more sustained than Run For Your Life and definitely more heady (steep friction versus edging making the difference I guess).You want to be strong at the grade before attempting the roof move as a fall just above would be ugly.Be sure to extend the draws at the start and end of the slight traverse or you will be fighting bad rope drag near the end.
Great climb! Solid friction and good rock throughout. A couple thought provoking moves after the roof crux keep it interesting.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Jan 20, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Old Vogel guide indicates a bolt below the roof on the slab. Untrue however, the baby roof can be protected with a 2" cam & medium wire to protect. Cool move, but yikes.
I counted 6 bolts, but stupid me missed the third one 'cause I couldn't see it from the second bolt and ended up running it out straight to the fourth one. Didn't realize it until I clipped the 4th and looked back down and right to see the third. It did cut down on rope drag though!
I almost bailed at the start after not feeling so cozy about the fall, but figured out a solid sequence and was able to climb through. it gets easier as you progress, but still keeps you thinking with a combination of crimping and smearing. Well worth the effort if your in the area and solid enough at the grade to not fall off the move over the lip.
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