BETA PHOTO: Rat Rock from the nature trail. The top of the dam...
Description
Rat Rock is mostly made up of trad routes with a couple good sport routes as well. With just a short hike from the new Barker Dam parking lot, it is just across the dam as you walk the nature trail. Hosting at least 14 routes, there is anything from easy to moderate climbing on sun soaked stone with wonderful views of the dam and park area surounding it. Some crusty stone can be found on the less traveled routes but rock quality is fine all around. For a tour of this rock, climbing up from the dam on Rat Ledge (5.8) and then over the top to a short but fun single bolt line of Damm Dike (5.7) to set a toprope (or drop down for inspired trad lead) on a beautiful right-facing dihedral of The Way it Should Be (5.10a). Finally a couple of wild, moderate sport routes can be found with a shared two bolt anchor, just down the rock from The Way it Should Be to finish off the visit. Fun stuff...
Getting There
Park at the new Barker Dam parking lot and hit the nature trail toward Barker Dam. Once at the dam, the routes can be reached either by crossing the dam itself (don't fall in...) or by skirting the water around to the east, along the base of Lakeside Rock.
Bad Lizards (5.10a) is a decent friction route that's all bolted and safe. The climbs starts on the west side of the dam on a slabby apron of rock and then higher up takes a headwall (crux) to finish at anchors on the summit of Rat Rock. Descend down and left as per Rat Ledge.
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