This route is a link up of a couple routes on the west face of Russell. All I can say is it takes the BEST looking line on the west face, right directly up the center. Beyond that the photos will have to suffice for locating the route. After a little scrambling to reach the base of the crack, you pull up into the system proper. The crux is these moves pulling around a little bulge on some grainy rock. Follow this system for a pitch to some ledgy terrain. Cross some weird stuff to the left to gain the plumbline system. After that, it's hard to get lost. Follow the crack/dihedral/flake system for 3 pitches or so. This description does little to relay the striking beauty of this climb, but trust me, it's good.
Location
left of Mithral, on the west face, dead center. see photo
Protection
A single rack to #3 Camalot works, maybe a few doubles 3/4"-2".
1st half is the West Face (Galen Rowell, Chris Jones 1971) 2nd half is New Era (Alan Bartlett, Kim Walker 1978) The combo became Western Front when Peter Croft attempted to repeat Rowell's route WITH him but Rowell couldn't remember where it went, so they ended up on New Era. Croft describes it as "the best looking line on the biggest face on Mt. Russell" and claims the fourth pitch is the best he's done on Mt. Russell. It's the only route I've done on Russell and it is certainly of VERY high quality. A little graininess on the 2nd pitch, but otherwise excellent rock in beautiful, steep, airy corners.
All this info is from Croft's excellent book "The Good, The Great, and The Awesome". Also worth noting is that Croft calls it a 900' grade IV. I can't remember exactly how long it was but we did it in 6 pitches; none of them short, one of them with some simuling. It does go pretty quickly though with its obvious features and the descent is quick and easy too. Highly recommended.
Oops..... I have the unfortunate habit of forgetting just how long some of these routes really are. now that I think about it, It's definitely a big grade IV. After doing the Incredible Hulk, they all felt small.
By markguycan From: flagstaff, az Jul 14, 2008 rating: 5.10+ PG13
we didn't read the beta from Croft til afterwards: the crack in the corner on pitch 4 & 5 is "suitable only for knifeblades and girl fingers" if you do it this way as we did, bring at least doubles of micro cams and many small nuts. expect some powerful and insecure stemming on gravelly face. we did shorter pitches to start then a couple 200ft rope stretchers with some simulclimbing. I would say it remains 10+ but with cruxes on pitch 1, 4 & 5. pitches 2,3 & 6 are 5.8 or 5.9 with another 400ft of 4th and easy 5th to the summit. A worthy endeavor...
Mt. Russell
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