The entire route entails some challenging but very fun diverse climbing. The crux 10.b lies on the Seventh pitch. It is definitely a Classic and must DO!
Total of seven technical Pitches with an additional 300' feet of Class 3ish to reach the Summit proper.
Location
Descend Class 2 via the West Ridge to the Col between Merriam and Royce. Then proceed down to Camp.
Protection
This is a Backcountry Trad route with ZERO fixed gear.
Gear List: 2ea MET TCU's (#1-3) 2ea MET FCU's (#4-8) 2ea WC Flexi #4 Friend 1 Set Of Stoppers 10 Alpine Slings(Draws) w/Biner's 10 Spare Biner's 2 60m Double's
That is my beta/topo photo that I put up on Summitpost. Glad to see it is getting used, because it took me a while to make it. I thought the route was solid, and does not deserve a PG13. There is a little bit of grainyness because it doesn't get climbed that often, but there is very little loose rock. Pretty standard for Sierra granite. The great thing about this climb is that it is all climbing. There is very little scrambling or easy 5th class.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Aug 30, 2009
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