North Buttress (aka the Dragway) 

FA:  FA: Reed Cundiff & Jack Miller, 1971 FFA: Jay Smith & Paul Crawford, 1983 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.10 [details] Length:  5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Views: 279 page views Submitted By: Mike Morley on Jul 1, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The striking dihedral of the Dragtooth.

Description 

"One of the classic climbs in the High Sierra, this route deserves more traffic," writes R.J. Secor of the North Buttress of Dragtooth.

The route ascends a striking left-facing dihedral that is visible from afar. Scramble up a snowfield/glacier and crumbly rock to gain a ledge with a 2-piton anchor. Rope up beneath a chimney at the bottom of the buttress. Climb the chimney (5.7) and continue straight up the face for a full rope length to belay. Traverse right on loose rock (past a hangerless 1/4" bolt) to the base of the prominent left-facing dihedral and a single piton. The next 2 pitches ascend the dihedral, and constitute the best climbing on the route. The first dihedral pitch is 5.9 and ends at a stance with 2 quarter-inch bolts (best to back up). The fourth pitch (100') continues on 5.9 terrain, culminating in a section of 5.10 off-width to gain a belay in a small alcove. BEWARE OF THE LOOSE, STACKED BLOCKS guarding the exit from the clean corner! One final 5.9/9+ pitch ascends a finger-to-hands crack for 140'. From here, 3rd and 4th class scrambling for several pitches lead to the summit.

Descend via the notch between Dragtooth and Matterhorn Peak.

Location 

From Mono Village at the west edge of Twin Lakes, hike south along the Horse Creek trail up switchbacks past Horsetail Falls as for Matterhorn Peak. Veer SW at the prominent Horse Creek Tower, crossing a snowfield to the base of Dragtooth. Allow 4 hours for the approach.

Protection 

Standard rack with double set of cams to 4" (Two #4 Camalots are particularly useful).

Add Photo Photos of North Buttress (aka the Dragway)

Ken Klis on the summit of Dragtooth	Mike Morley at a stance 1/3 of the way up THE corn...	The upper part of the corner at 4".
BETA PHOTO: Old 1/4" bolt anchor on the route.	The 5.9+ finger to hands crack on pitch 5.	Just past the loose 5.9 traverse and getting into ...