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Dragtooth
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North Buttress (aka the Dragway) 

North Buttress (aka the Dragway) 

5.10

   

FA: FA: Reed Cundiff & Jack Miller, 1971 FFA: Jay Smith & Paul Crawford, 1983
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III
Views: 279 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Jul 1, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: The striking dihedral of the Dragtooth.


Description 

"One of the classic climbs in the High Sierra, this route deserves more traffic," writes R.J. Secor of the North Buttress of Dragtooth.

The route ascends a striking left-facing dihedral that is visible from afar. Scramble up a snowfield/glacier and crumbly rock to gain a ledge with a 2-piton anchor. Rope up beneath a chimney at the bottom of the buttress. Climb the chimney (5.7) and continue straight up the face for a full rope length to belay. Traverse right on loose rock (past a hangerless 1/4" bolt) to the base of the prominent left-facing dihedral and a single piton. The next 2 pitches ascend the dihedral, and constitute the best climbing on the route. The first dihedral pitch is 5.9 and ends at a stance with 2 quarter-inch bolts (best to back up). The fourth pitch (100') continues on 5.9 terrain, culminating in a section of 5.10 off-width to gain a belay in a small alcove. BEWARE OF THE LOOSE, STACKED BLOCKS guarding the exit from the clean corner! One final 5.9/9+ pitch ascends a finger-to-hands crack for 140'. From here, 3rd and 4th class scrambling for several pitches lead to the summit.

Descend via the notch between Dragtooth and Matterhorn Peak.


Location 

From Mono Village at the west edge of Twin Lakes, hike south along the Horse Creek trail up switchbacks past Horsetail Falls as for Matterhorn Peak. Veer SW at the prominent Horse Creek Tower, crossing a snowfield to the base of Dragtooth. Allow 4 hours for the approach.


Protection 

Standard rack with double set of cams to 4" (Two #4 Camalots are particularly useful).



Add Photo Photos of North Buttress (aka the Dragway)
Ken Klis on the summit of Dragtooth

Ken Klis on the summit of Dragtooth

Mike Morley at a stance 1/3 of the way up THE corner.

Mike Morley at a stance 1/3 of the way up THE corn...

The upper part of the corner at 4".

The upper part of the corner at 4".

Old 1/4" bolt anchor on the route.

BETA PHOTO: Old 1/4" bolt anchor on the route.

The 5.9+ finger to hands crack on pitch 5.

The 5.9+ finger to hands crack on pitch 5.

Just past the loose 5.9 traverse and getting into the dihedral.

Just past the loose 5.9 traverse and getting into ...


Add Comment Comments on North Buttress (aka the Dragway)
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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 1, 2007

Be prepared for loose rock - this route does not seem to be climbed often (the last summit entry was from 1997). Also, I have kept the original grade III rating, although with approach and descent, count on a grade IV day.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2007

Climbed this in the mid/late 80's, hoping for the FFA. Had a great climb but Jay & Paul beat us to it. The line certainly is striking from afar.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 31, 2007

Dang, George! Is there anywhere you haven't climbed??!!

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2007

I haven't climbed much east of the Mississippi ...