Ironically, one of the Sierras greatest Alpine rock climbs isn't even on granite! But rather a steep, smooth rock with angular holds from more ancient times. Watch out for more loose rock than usual.
Start the climb up the lefthand gully, uphill from the base of the face. There may be a cairn.
P1-2 5.6. Make a long traverse right and slightly upwards then around onto the face proper.
P3-7 5.7. There's a shallow dihedral up high on the right side of the face; aim for it, but don't go too far right. The last pitch finishes with a tricky traverse to a hanging belay at the bottom of the shallow dihedral.
P8 5.8. Climb the shallow dihedral to an alcove.
P9 5.8. Left out of the alcove then wander across and up the white scar to a ledge just below the large summit dihedral.
P10 5.8. A short strenuous corner leads to a ledge at the bottom of the main dihedral.
P11-12 5.8. Two pitches up the summit dihedral lead to a notch.
P13 5.7. Traverse left on a large ledge then up the face to the summit ridge.
Scramble the ridge to the summit.
Location
Approach: From Cecile Lake.
Descent: Cross Class 3 rock towards the Ken-Clyde Notch, down climb this to the start of the climb - a rappel is necessary at one point.
Car-to-car makes for an enjoyable (albeit long) day. We hiked in at 1AM, completed the route (and the descent), then hiked back out before sunset. I recommend the 5.9+ direct variation, although there is loose rock. The lakeside bivvy spots are beautiful. But the creek-side mosquitos...
Clyde Minaret
RSS Feed
