Clyde Minaret is named after Norman Clyde, the High Sierras most prolific first ascensionist. It is a very fine peak made from, not granite, but a more ancient metamorphic rock, which gives it its characteristic, almost non-Sierra-like shape of a sharp needle (as seen from the ski slopes of Mammoth). Its dark triangular SE face is home to a great classic rock climb.
Getting There
Red's Meadow is the trailhead. Get their either by shuttle bus from Mammoth during the day, or arrive by car late at night.
Head north on the John Muir Trail at first, then cut left (west) onto an obvious trail which leads to Minaret Lake. On the bench above this lake lies Cecile Lake (10,246ft), where there are limited campsites (7.75 miles, 2,700ft elevation gain).
Ironically, one of the Sierras greatest Alpine rock climbs isn't even on granite! But rather a steep, smooth rock with angular holds from more ancient times. Watch out for more loose rock than usual.Start the climb up the lefthand gully, uphill from the base of the face. There may be a cairn.P1-2 5.6. Make a long traverse right and slightly upwards then around onto the face proper.P3-7 5.7. There's a shallow dihedral up high on the right side of ...[more]
I found the topo fairly inaccurate. The topo from the 100 classic Sierra climbs is far more accurate. The first pitch is a long traverse up and right but is probably about 5.7. There was a pile of sticks at the start, though a better reference point is that it's nearly level with the toe of Michael Minaret to the left.
Three more pitches lead to a ledge atop a pedestal where you start the crux 5.8 + traverse R. into the dihedral, which really isn't indicated on this topo. From there, you following the dihedral to the traversing pitch up and left.
A great climb, but not for 5.8 newbies. It's long, committing, with route finding issues. A 5.8 climb for solid 5.9 climbers.
The direct start is well worth doing . It is two pitches of 10a climbing up a terrific dihedral . Overall the route is pretty sustained at 5.8 . It took us about 8 hours to climb the route . Route finding is not that hard . Much of the route is climbing up corners . The traversing pitch was 5.9 , and scary in my opinion . The pro is there but you have to make moves a few feet out at times . An amazing climb .
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