This very interesting route didn't find its way into Mayr's guide but is easy to find. It starts in the shallow, light-colored trough about 12' to the right of Umbilical Cord. And its more like two short and very different climbs stacked atop one another. The lower section features fine balance and smearing on tiny edges. Going straight up along the bolt line gives this one it's grade, but easier versions can be had to the right if on top-rope: although there is a crux move at the first bolt, the black patina soon leads one away from the bolts to better edges in the 5.9 to .10a range; stay within easy reach of the three bolts for sustained climbing at grade. After gaining the wide ledge above the lower slab, the climb moves up left to a flat black headwall. Opposing edges and creative footwork will take you past two more bolts to the top of the tower where a two bolt chain anchor is shared with the Umbilical Cord. Although this upper section is no harder than easy 5.9, the moves involved make this the best part of the climb. Rappel to descend.
Exhumed in Mayr's book (3rd ed) is to the left of Umbilical Cord. This is a new route not in the book but I don't think it is Exhumed???
By 72HW From: Pasadeana, CA Feb 7, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Or there may be an error in Troy's book.
Naw - that could never be!
The above description and beta match the climb, though the 10c rating may be a little sandbagged. I have heard other people call this route Exhumed and tend to trust them more than Troy's book. Just an opinion.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Feb 26, 2009
I originally posted this route without a name because Exhumed is shown in Troy's guide to the left of Umbilical Cord. "Exhumed" was added to this page as the route title at a later date by an MP administrator. I was unable to get confirmation from anyone regarding the proper name. But I've also met climbers who say that this route is Exhumed. Troy? Jack Marshall? Anyone know for sure?
There is, by the way, a bolted route on the north side of this formation (where Troy's guide shows Exhumed to be) that others tell me goes at about .10c.
By 72HW From: Pasadeana, CA Mar 15, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Interesting indeed - I will have to look for the route you mention next time I'm out there.
Now I am really wondering what the route we are talking about is?
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