the old A1 bolt ladder (...with a few 3/8" bolts t...
Description
Climb this corner (5.7) to an exiting point 35' above and to the right onto a large ledge. Locate a two bolt anchor and belay the second from this anchor. Directly above this set of anchors is an A1 bolt laddder. There are 12 bolts in all, mostly 1/4" thread bolts and buttonheads, with the occasional 3/8" to keep it safe yet sporty. Climb this bolt ladder to the summit (30'), where a two bolt anchor with rap chains are located. Fix the line to the anchors for the second to jug. Near the anchor is a pile of rocks that secures the summit register (courtesy of Greg Vernon, placed in Feb 2000). A single rope rappel WILL make it back down to the notch, at the base of the route.
As a side note, this location seems to channel most of the wind passing over the ridge and can be a very chilly location when climbing in the winter and early spring (bring warm clothes!!).
Location
As described for the approach to the notch of Old Woman Statue, scramble up 3rd class terrain via chockstone in a large crack and onto short ledges around the norhtwestern shoulder of Old Woman's base. Scramble to a notch above. The notch is ideal location for the intial belay and start of The North Face. Next to the notch is a near vertical left-facing corner crack (roughly 30'). This is the start of the route, which eventually leads to the summit.
Protection
Key equipment: - small to medium nuts - cams to 1" - 24 oval carabiners - two sets of etriers - a set of jumars - a bolt kit (should one of the ancient 1/4" bolts blow out!) - (1) 60 meter rope - And a cool head!
Add PhotoPhotos of The North Face Of Old Woman Statue
The route starts at the big left facing flaring co...
Pitch one of the Old Woman Statue.
Taken 5/14/08
Just a little taste of the beautiful, sunbaked des...
Flying up p-2 of The Old Woman Statue.
Add CommentComments on The North Face Of Old Woman Statue
Show which comments —
By Chris Miller Administrator May 10, 2008 rating: 5.7 C0
A very cool formation in an unique and remote setting.
As for gear, all that should be need is a light rack to 2" or so and a dozen draws plus slings. The bolt ladder is short and can be done by yarding up on the bolts (etriers work better but aren't necessary). The rap anchor was replaced by me in 2001.
Old Woman Statue
RSS Feed
