Located on the hillside to the south of and facing the south face of Raven Rocks, this northeast-facing crag is shady most of the day and a good bet for warm weather cragging. Routes here are mostly high quality With a range of difficulty from 5.9 to 5.12, something for everybody.
Start up "Hole In One" for the first 3 bolts. (longer draw on the 3 bolt helps with rope drag) Then head up and right thru steep huecos, turn the lip on thin holds and face climb to the anchors. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal May 11, 2007
We counted four routes on the right side of the canyon on the way up to the Fairway routes listed here and in the SoCal Sport Guide. The first two were on lower angled rock at the bottom of the canyon and looked like something I'd like to try. Any info available on these? Also, the route just right of China Girl (Name Unknown in the Guide; not listed on this site) is rated 10a but seemed harder to us. Any comments on this? Perhaps it was just too continuously steep for us JT senior citizen types. And also, there is an anchor visible on top of the next crag up and left from the existing Fairway routes, at the top of a very easy looking face, but no bolts on the face yet. What are the plans for this? Thanks for any info anyone might be able to share.
By Art Morimitsu Administrator From: Huntington Beach, Ca May 11, 2007
Most likely the routes you passed were either The Shreen area (located at the bottom of the canyon) or Fantasy Island which is the area directly below the Fairway. I know that the guidebook shows the Shreen as above Fantasy Island but it is wrong. The first area encountered on the trail is the Shreen, followed by Fantasy Island and lastly The Fairway.
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal May 11, 2007
Ah yes, Fantasy Island it is. Two of the climbs I saw must have been Minute Men Arete and Fantasia/Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. But the two I was really interested were downhill from there and not shown on the topo. Thanks for the help.
By Art Morimitsu Administrator From: Huntington Beach, Ca May 14, 2007
Brandt I strongly suspect those routes are on The Shreen, Shreen (10b) on the left and Story Of J (10a) on the right
The two routes on low-angle rock below Fantasy Island are 10a-ish. They climb like J Tree slabs, minus the friction.
Jay
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal May 17, 2007
Thanks Jay and Art, I did one route on the Shreen long ago so I know that's not it. Yes they looked like 10aish JT type routes; I should feel right at home on them! I was up at NJC yesterday but the heat got to me a bit. We'll limit our trips up there to late afternoon for the next few months.
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