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Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
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Blast From The Past 
Disconnected 
Espresso 
Holey Moley 
Raven, The 
Red Devil 
Should be Called Do What? 
Voodoo Child 
Voodoo Lounge 
You Don't Know Jack 

You Don't Know Jack 

5.12c

   

FA: Jack Marshall
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Views: 199 page views

Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 19, 2006


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Jack on the "You Don't Know Jack".


Description 

Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.

This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.

A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.


Location 

Left of Espresso in the middle of the roof


Protection 

4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.



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By Art Morimitsu
Administrator
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 21, 2006

Actually, I do know Jack.

Jack SUCKS j/k