This is the second route from the left and is located between White Head (5.9) on the left and White Out (5.10b) on the right.
A series of balancy liebacks lead up to and past the first bolt, after which easier moves in the middle of the route lead to yet more liebacking past the third bolt, all of which should get you loosened up for the funky crux. Clip the last bolt, take a deep breath, and then commit to a series of awkward moves above the bolt with some good air potential if you pitch.
Technical and off-balance moves make this climb seem harder than it is, which is perhaps why it's not as popular as the neighboring routes.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Mar 3, 2007 rating: 5.11a
Starting moves are technical and committing as you liback a finger crack. After clipping the 3rd bolt you naturally move left using another liback section. Moving beyond the 4th bolt is a bit strange as you are forced through awkward and less than positive side pulls to get to the anchor. This section provides much better feet than hands and stop shopping for better hands as they don't exist.
This route could have easily exited from the left after the liback crack. This would have been the natural line. As it is, the last few feet seem forced but is probably the 11a section of the route. Had it taken the natural line the route most likely wouldn't be harder than .10?
Fun and definitely worth doing while at the wall!!
~Susan
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Mar 4, 2007 rating: 5.11a
Kinda fun... kinda awkward... kinda forced. The clip and move right at the top is bush league. For having a contrived finish, the route ain't bad, but don't pop doing those last moves... you just might clang pretty good down below the overhang.
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