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Raven Rocks North Face "Power Block" Area
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Blast From The Past 
Disconnected 
Espresso 
Holey Moley 
Raven, The 
Red Devil 
Should be Called Do What? 
Voodoo Child 
Voodoo Lounge 
You Don't Know Jack 

Red Devil 

5.12b

   

FA: Jack Marshall
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Views: 221 page views

Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 17, 2006


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Will on the crux of "Red Devil".


Description 

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, from here reach the well chalked jug and a fingerlock, Crux is pulling the lip and standing up to an undercling. Above you'll find varied moves on crimpers and jugs. The route uses the first 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack").


Location 

In the middle of the roof left of Espresso (5.10c).


Protection 

Chain Anchors, 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack"). 3 hangers for draws.



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006
rating: 5.12b

The powerful moves getting stood up above the roof is the crux but a sequence of thin edges higher can be hard if pumped or it's cold. An area classic, even if it's a little on the short side.

By Art Morimitsu
Administrator
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 19, 2006

Hah! I fell off those moves above the crux after the fourth clip and had to repeat the route the day after for a Redpoint. Agree that those moves are still plenty difficult.

By duh
Dec 27, 2006

Red Devil was the second sport route bolted at NJC.