Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, from here reach the well chalked jug and a fingerlock, Crux is pulling the lip and standing up to an undercling. Above you'll find varied moves on crimpers and jugs. The route uses the first 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack").
Location
In the middle of the roof left of Espresso (5.10c).
Protection
Chain Anchors, 2 chain draws (the remaining chain draws up and left belong to the route "You don't know Jack"). 3 hangers for draws.
By Chris Miller Administrator Dec 18, 2006 rating: 5.12b
The powerful moves getting stood up above the roof is the crux but a sequence of thin edges higher can be hard if pumped or it's cold. An area classic, even if it's a little on the short side.
By Art Morimitsu Administrator From: Huntington Beach, Ca Dec 19, 2006
Hah! I fell off those moves above the crux after the fourth clip and had to repeat the route the day after for a Redpoint. Agree that those moves are still plenty difficult.