Candy O 

Extremely fun route and should be considered an area classic. Two distinct cruxes one lower/mid way with second crux clipping the last bolt before the anchors. (hint...go high) Very fun, well protected and a must do.

~Susan

This was a fun one. No pump factor, it's more like two cool boulder problems separated by 20' of 5-easy.

There are like 3 loose layback holds right at the first crux. They flex and have chalk "X's" on them. Will they come off if you use them???? depends on how you use them, but they are loose. Too bad New Jack is an area of critical environmental concern and on the U.S. Register of Historical Places, 'cause I would just pump a few tubes of epoxy behind them there loose flakes.

Russ are those flakes that loose? They have always been a little loose since the fa., I was hoping they would last. It's been 11 years since the fa, maybe with the amount of traffic that route sees, it's time to do something about it before we loose those flakes? Anyone have any epoxy?

Say Duh.... yeah.... they are pretty loose. I think if I got my fingers behind them and tried to layback or pulled out, they would go. I "thumb spragged" them as a test and they moved about a 1/4" or more.

The route has been fixed. Thanks for the info Russ.