BETA PHOTO: This is Ronnie Miller on Mavericks(11c) looking ea...
Description
It was a warm and sunny spring day. My partner and I were looking to tick off every area in the Slater guidebook, so we decided that today would be the day to check out Wagon Caves. The drive was beautiful, fields full of washes of green and purple, red and yellow . . . the approach to this area is wonderful.
When you get there you'll find this amazing outcropping of sandstone and hueco features. But don't get excited!! Many of the routes you'd find in the guidebook have been chopped! You'll find some TR anchors if you look hard enough, some hangerless bolts, and a few routes who have been untouched. It's a crap shoot.
But it sure is pretty! Bring picnic supplies and your significant other for a good time!
Update: All the climbs listed have Top Rope anchors that are in good condition. The only leads in the area currently are Mavericks, Talking Tower, and Back Talk (on The Talking Tower). The lead bolts on New-tist Colony are hangerless.
If you visit this area please tread lightly. It is an awesome wilderness climbing area. Your actions reflect on others and speak volumes to land managers. If you bolt please camoflage the bolts and use low profile Rap anchors if you place them.
Update 2: (T. Slater, 1/23/06) There is a bolting ban at Wagon Caves. Current anchors can be maintained, but that is it. Newtist Colony has hangers now, and the beach has TR anchors. I have been working with Brenda at the FS. It IS a sensitive site (she has been working between me and the tribe) so we need to be cool while out there. It is what it is, and nobody should go out there with a drill.
Getting There
From Highway 101 going north from San Luis Obispo, exit at Jolon (country road G-18). Head west under the overpass toward Fort Hunter Ligget. You'll go about 20 miles to the Mission road junction. There may or may not be a sign. Turn left onto this road and you'll reach the military's gate. Show them license and registration and head into the area.
Once you pass through the front gate you follow Mission Rd. Nacimiento-Ferguson Rd. will branch out on the left but keep going straight through the main part of the base. Look for Del Ventura on your left after you pass the Recreation center (large white building) on your right. It is a five way intersection. Del Ventura is the second one going left. The Mission shouldbe strasight ahead just before you turn left. There will be a sign indicating that you need an National Forest Adventure Pass and within a mile you will ford the San Antonio River. Keep traveling on Del Ventura.
After the second ford it will become Milpitas Rd. This will lead you all the way to the Wagon Caves. You will pass a guard shack on your right (empty) and cross a cattle guard. This is the boundary of military property. The Wagon Caves are less than a mile from the boundary of the Base. You will see them on your left as you approach. There is a spacious turnout to use.
If you would like to camp you can drive another mile and take the dirt road on your left to some primitive/unimproved sites. There are no facilities here. Or you can travel another 5 miles to Santa Lucia Memorial Park (aka The Indians). The only facilities here are a pit toilet and picnic tables. No water is availible. Designated Campsites.
The cruz start makes you reach long over a bulge to a less than great pocket . From there pull the bulge and gun for a diagonal side pull. some more kind-of-thin climbing leads to better huecos up top . An excellent route with its own TR anchors. The start is about 20 left of the big land mark boulder. Mostly solid and clean as far as quality is concerned......[more]
About a year or so ago i spoke with Slater's wife about it. She said it was not the Indians, but a very old-school climber that didn't believe in bolts. She said that the climber has since left the area and that she would be thrilled if someone re-bolted it. I also spoke to a FS ranger and they said they didn't believe it was an "Indian Sacred Ground" issue. I was up there a few months ago with Ronnie Miller on Mavericks and the bolts seemed to be in pretty good shape on that climb...maybe they were too hard for the old-school guy to reach and chop.:)
I've never been there and have been discouraged by the distance and the possibility that I'll get there & can't get access due to 9-11 concerns. Can anyone tell me how long it takes & whether access is guaranteed?
In response to the question about access through FHL with the 9/11 security etc. At the gate you have to tell them where you are going, each person 18 years and older in the car must have I.D., and the driver must have valid registration and insurance for the vehicle he is driving.Not much climbing has been going on there so the place is in pristine condition, although some cleaning might be needed. TRanchors along Beach Wall have been replaced, bring a fairly long runner as they are back from the edge.
Wagon Caves and all the rocks in this vicinity are known as "The Indians" and have special historical interest. I don't know the "official" policy on climbing at these sites, but because other visitors come here to view the native american artifacts, I recommend climbers keep a very low profile. In particular I would discourage any bolting at all.Also use extreme restraint about "cleaning" routes as in some places the sandstone is very delicate and it's easy to create ugly scars.Also, be on the lookout for rattlesnakes which are abundant around here.
Theron Moses and I have been climbing at Wagon Caves quite a bit lately since we live in Paso. We're looking at putting up some new routes (primarily for top rope to minimize the impact). The rocks are so accesable that its easy to TR most climbs. The potential for new routes is vast, probably because it's such a remote location. It takes me an hour from Paso. We rarely see other climbers out there.
Frank, I wouldn't even fel too bad about putting up lead routes, especially on the the west facing wall that drops down to the lowlands. In other words, if you are at the left side of The Beach you would be at the top of it. there are only a couple of places that hikers generally go and they usually follow the well-worn trails. Anything else would likely not be noticed, especially if you use colored hangers. the Indian artifacts are mostly in the cave underneath and to the right of Wagon Caves Wall. I don't think a couple of hikers a week should prohibit climbers from developing the place, within reason, of course!
Two active Beehives as of 4/8/07, one on small dome's south face that is in front of Tiny Bubbles (The Beach). The other is on the approach trail to The Beach, but can be skirted by going left and around the hive.
Wagon Caves
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