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Kelly's Hill
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5.11 Crack 
Afternoon Delight 
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Face, Jump Start Boulder 
Johnnie Big Mouth 
Jump Start 
S.O.S. 
Target Practice 

Johnnie Big Mouth 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Kelly Lindsay
Page Views: 1,185
Submitted By: Joe Stern on Jun 26, 2010

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First ascent of Johnnie Big Mouth. This was the fi...

Description 

Sit start on great holds in the low hueco on the overhanging tallest part of the boulder. I went pretty much straight up on slopers, most of which have a little bit of a positive edge. Guidebook says to go up and right. Either way, getting established out of the hole is probably the crux.


Location 

This problem is in the "main area" of Kelly's Hill. When hiking up to this area from the main trail, you'll see the boulder with Jump Start on your left and the obvious striking prow of the Johnnie Big Mouth boulder on your right. Good map in the Bob Banks book.


Protection 

Crash pad.



Photos of Johnnie Big Mouth Slideshow Add Photo
Johnnie Big Mouth during a beautiful, clear sunset.
Johnnie Big Mouth during a beautiful, clear sunset...
Arthur hitting the top of Johnny Bigmouth
Arthur hitting the top of Johnny Bigmouth
Johnnie Big Mouth boulder and the Pacific Ocean.
Johnnie Big Mouth boulder and the Pacific Ocean.
Johnnie Big Mouth, V4.
BETA PHOTO: Johnnie Big Mouth, V4.
Classic, steep, slopey Santa Barbara bouldering!
Classic, steep, slopey Santa Barbara bouldering!
Comments on Johnnie Big Mouth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kelly Lindsay
Aug 21, 2013
rating: V4 6B

The correct name is Johnnie Big Mouth, after the song by Don Carlos. The original problem went to the right after the hueco and finished with a big dyno to the top, until a better sequence was discovered that went straight up.

By Joe Stern
Jan 27, 2014

Updated the name. Thanks for the info and great photo Kelly.

By 5150dhbiker
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 6, 2014

I love this rock. The dyno to the top is, in my opinion, the most fun way to finish this problem.