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Dancing Outlaw Boulder
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Dancing Outlaw 

V8

   
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Type: Boulder, 20 feet
Consensus: V8 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Rob Riggleman on Nov 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Nearing the undercling where the meat of the probl...

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Description 

On the steep side of the boulder, Dancing Outlaw goes up the left side of the rib using a couple of good slopers, crimps, and an incut. Muscle your way into the powerful undercling and up to the lip. Move left on a couple of poor slopers to the arete, and top out just left of the arete.

One word of caution: on the hueco undercling, don't crank on the lip of the hueco; it flexes a lot and there are other spots that are just as good.

In many ways this is THE classic climb at the Brickyard - is there a move on this problem that isn't awesome?


Location 

If you're facing to the ocean, this problem is on the right half of the Brickyard on the north side of a boulder. It is just to the left of Smooth Criminal.


Protection 

Pads and a spotter on the rock below the problem.



Photos of Dancing Outlaw Slideshow Add Photo
Andy at the crux throw

Andy at the crux throw


Comments on Dancing Outlaw Add Comment
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By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
4 days ago
rating: V8-

Not the same grade as Debra at potters.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
4 days ago
rating: V8-

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
4 days ago

As in harder? Easier?

I'm sure Debra is worse now with the broken crimp, but I thought it was on the mellower side of V8 prior to breakage. Dancing Outlaw has always been a good example of SB V8 in my opinion.

By Bob Banks
4 days ago

Dancing Outlaw is pretty much the standard for V8 in Santa Barbara, would be a mega-classic in any bouldering area, and has seen hundreds of ascents over the last 15 years.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
4 days ago
rating: V8-

To me Debra seemed harder. Also G Old Women seems as hard as this. Have you guys tried "Cradlerock Style v7" as in the Edwards guide. I will add it to Mt. p today, but it seemed hard. Thoughts?

By Bob Banks
3 days ago

Ok, so Debra is harder. But it seems that what you're trying to say is that Dancing Outlaw isn't V8. My previous comment was to clarify that Dancing Outlaw is confirmed at the grade. Debra has seen, what, maybe two ascents?

As far as Grotesque Old Woman, since the start hold broke many years ago, it's harder than it was, but I still don't think it's as hard as Dancing Outlaw.

And about Cradlerock Style, yeah I've done it (it's my problem) and yeah it's hard. Last time I checked, unless your last name is Ondra, V7 is hard. But you're frigging crazy if you think that it's as hard as the Outlaw!

And get rid of that Edwards guide and replace it with a proper guidebook!

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
3 days ago
rating: V8-

I not trying to say Dancing Outlaw is not V8, I was thinking Debra was closer to V9. I think the Old Women was just hard for me compared to Outlaw, so I gave them the same grade. Anyways the difference is small and does not really matter. I was just interested in talking about it.

I was also not trying to say V7 is not a hard grade in regard to Cradlerock Style. I was thinking that the first move off the crimp rail seemed like one of the harder single moves I had done at the yard. I felt like it was a pure strength move (bad beta maybe?) that is harder than v7. After that it is much easier. Just my thoughts.

I will get your guide...someday haha.

Anyways thanks for the great response.