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Chavez/Mosher 

5.10- R

   

FA: John Chavez & Rick Mosher (late 70s)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 75 feet
Views: 27 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 19, 2009


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Description 

Same start as Scrub Job. Climb up to a large hole, and clip the bolt above the right-hand side of the hole. Exit the hole on the right and follow a shallow trough that angles slightly right as it ascends the wall.

It is possible to use the trough for hand holds, doing a psuedo-lieback to the right. There are just enough edges among the lichen to the right of the trough for your feet.

The difficulties continue well above the bolt. A fall near the top of the trough would deposit you very painfully in the gully. As the trough ends, follow good edges straight up to a bolt. Then traverse horizontally to the right to a third bolt. Climb straight to the top from here.


Location 

Starts from the Oak Tree that grows out of a crack in the descent gully (level with the top of the first pitch of Face Lift)


Protection 

3 bolts, very runout to the second bolt.

Belay from a large oak tree set back 10 feet from the top of the route.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 19, 2009

I made the very unfortunate mistake of climbing this route while thinking that I was climbing Scrub Job. The runout above the first bolt is very, very scary.

To my surprise, the route did not feel as hard to me as the "5.10b/c" claimed in the Edwards Guidebook. I thought perhaps 5.10a...or old-school 5.9+.