Cielo Crack Crag is a testament of hope to those who think Santa Barbara is climbed out—which it is. Kind of. At least the most obvious lines are. But for those who want a pleasant surprise which has been sitting right under their noses since the 80's, Cielo Crack is for you. While not a new addition to Santa Barbara climbing, Cielo Crack has fallen out of popularity in the last ten years, hence the prolific amounts of poison oak on the approach.
Cielo Crack Crag's namesake packs a mighty wallop in 35 feet, and touts as much—if not more—sustained, constant jamming than any other climb in town. Wide stuff, fists, off-hands, hands, fingers, off-fingers... it's all there. And did I say it begins as a roof crack? This splitter stays engaging to the VERY last move.
Getting There
Drive up the 154 and take a left on West Camino Cielo. Drive about 80 yards and you will pass over a bridge. Look up through the trees to your left. The Crack is up the hill about 100 feet or so. Park in a pullout to your right.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cielo Crack Crag (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack"):
This has been climbed. Quite a lot, actually. I was called something like Pacalolo. There are a handfull of established routes in this area but it's all on private land so it was left out of the guide. As long as it stays low key climbing probably won't be a problem.
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
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