BETA PHOTO: Approximate line of the 5.7 South Face route.
Description
When it comes to multi-pitch adventure climbing, Cathedral Peak is truly the hidden gem of Santa Barbara!
Cathedral peak is entirely bolt-free and offers at least 3 different multi-pitch trad lines including the Cave Route (5.6), the South Face (5.7), and a 5.10 face route on the shield to the right of South Face.
In particular, the 3-pitch South Face route is a great low-angle training climb for the moderate trad leader.
The approach hike is strenuous but the scenery is stunning and the climbing is fun and readily protectable. For further info about this wild and scenic formation, including basic route descriptions with FA details and an excellent beta photo, consult the old Steve Tucker / Kevin Steele guidebook ("Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" circa 1992).
Getting There
Cathedral Peak is located approx. 1 mile due south (downhill) from La Cumbre Peak, and getting there is definitely part of the adventure! The 45 minute approach hike is no joke, so bring lots of water and save half a liter per person for the return trip.
By car, take Gibraltar Road all the way up to Camino Cielo and head west (left) until you get to the La Cumbre Peak lookout tower on the left. Park on Camino Cielo and walk uphill through the gate towards the lookout tower. Take the right fork in the loop road just inside the gate.
The trail starts at a wood bench overlooking the ocean at a point where the loop road takes a sharp turn to the left (the bench is carved with the names "Christopher and Shannon" on the top rail). From the wood bench, head 100 yards downhill towards a prominent pile of rocks, then angle down and right over some class 3 and class 4 terrain to the saddle, then follow the saddle south on a good trail to the top of the ridge with your first view of the crag.
From there, work your way east, skirting just below the summit block via the north side of the ridge, and scramble down the east side gully by way of a short/steep climber's trail to the reach the base of the south face where all the climbs begin.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cathedral Peak:
South Face 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II
By Jeff Dunbar From: Newport Beach, CA Jun 18, 2007
I've only done the 5.7 South Face route so far, but I've listed all the other original routes (along with the original overview photo showing all the routes) from the old Steve Tucker / Kevin Steele guidebook for reference.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Aug 6, 2007
Let's hear it for the KEVIN STEELE GUIDE BOOK!
By Jeff Mahoney From: Santa Barbara, CA Aug 25, 2007
Let's hear it for KEVIN STEELE! He, Laura Bylund and I were up there yesterday. Fun route (but bring a weedwhacker....)
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Feb 1, 2008
No where in the preceding description does it say it, so let me be the first: "HELLISH BUSHWHACKING."
I seriously considered devoting myself to sport climbing during the first 1/4-mile of this approach.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Feb 9, 2008
Heh, heh... Matt does have a point. I've always hiked from the bottom (Tunnel Trailhead) to do the route, so I can't vouch for the hike in from the top. I will say that the hike from the bottom, while not a bushwack, makes for a big day nonetheless.
By Jeff Mahoney From: Santa Barbara, CA Feb 11, 2008
Oh Matt, it's not that bad. (I DID say bring a weedwhacker, though).
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Feb 20, 2008
I must be getting old :)
Can anyone recommend a good, tightly bolted, multi-pitch 5.7?
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