BETA PHOTO: Approximate path and bolt locations of Self Reflec...
Description
A bit of mid-route bushwhacking opens the door to some fine thin face climbing from a very scenic and exposed ledge.
Start in T-Crack and veer right into an alcove with a bush hanging from it. Now, throw a piece in the corner and start tree-hugging (keep your feet on the lower ledge) to afford a three bolt anchor (This whole route could be done in one 60M rope length, but is not recommended due to rope drag and communication issues).
Pitch two is a 3-bolt thin, near-vertical face with a plethora of hold types; dime edges, mono-digits, sharp incuts and oyster nubbins. Aesthetic and powerful climbing awaits. And conveniently, the cruxes are located with the bolts about waist high. After the third clip, make sure you head out right for full value.
Protection
Up to 4" and a handful of draws. Bolted anchors on top, set a ways back from the lip (same anchors as the Nose?)
A great addition to your rack might be some hedge trimmers.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Feb 3, 2008
What a fabulous route! I started from the bottom up (beginning on T-Crack), and found the 1st pitch to be on the steeper side of adventurous due to copious amounts of sharp, unforgiving vegetation as I transitioned out of the alcove. Don't let the bush deter you, however! I found the moves past the bush quite rewarding (I give it 5.10BUSH) and adds to the ambience.
The top is thin. As in THIN.
Enjoy!
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Jun 8, 2008
I came back and did the route once again, this time in hot weather and full sun on the upper pitch. The last chunk of climbing surmounting the summit was as challenging as I remembered it. While the route definitely lends itself to a two-pitch ascent, communication and belaying are hampered by the traversing nature of the route, as well as by the infamous BUSH in the alcove. If your follower is climbing at their limit, I recommend climbing Self Reflection in three pitches:
P1: start up T-crack, make a belay in the alcove. Belay takes fingers to big hand-sized pieces.
P2: short and silly, but... anyways, traverse under and around the BUSH and establish hanging belay at bolts.
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