Easy but unprotected climbing up the corner leads to a shallow horizontal ledge (5.4). Alternately, climb the face six feet right of the corner (5.6/5.7). Foot traverse right along the ledge until reaching a crack. Gratefully place a piece or two as you climb the crack up to an obvious overhang. Foot traverse left to the corner. Bypass the roof on the left-hand side. Climb the airy and exposed arete past two bolts to the top.
The true crux of the route is passing the second bolt (at 80 feet) which involves a committing and somewhat awkward mantel (5.7). Many people risk a significant swing and bypass the crux by traversing 6 feet right on the ledge and climbing face holds to the top (5.6).
The route is 110 feet long!! Do not try to rappel the route with a 60m rope. The only way to run a redirected toprope is to extend your anchor 10 feet below the two bolts out on the arete. NOTE: multiple directionals must be used when toproping in order to avoid a swing of up to 30 feet!
Location
This route starts on the obvious, easy corner to the left of the start of Many Happy Returns.
Protection
2 bolts. Optional 1/2"-1" gear. Very runout.
The top of the route is protected by a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Great Race) which can and should be backed up with a bolt higher up.
“The Fixe Glue-in atop this route now wiggles. There are also clearly visible chips where a runaway hammer made contact with the rock..."
Judging from the damage surrounding some of the other convenience anchors that have sprouted up at San Ysidro, I would assume this was a poorly executed removal attempt. Since the rock is so fragile, and the would-be remover so heavy handed, I am squarely against such removal tactics. Sounds though, that folks may be offended by the hijacking of historic lines at this crag.
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