San Ysidro (Lower)

Many of the routes at San Ysidro warrant a PG/R rating for seriousness. Unless you are toproping, anticipate significant runout sections on somewhat friable rock.

Thanks for the new set of anchors on Applied Magnetics...the old ones were looking pretty shabby.

I also noticed the horrible anchor chop-job at the top of Many Happy Returns. On another website, I read a post questioning why some of the retro-anchors were chopped, as they were essentially TR anchors.

San Ysidro has a proud history and has never been a considered a "Toproping" area, and I can understand how some could be offended by new TR anchors. I myself feel that not all of the new anchors are necessary. A directional nut can easily be placed at the top of Great Race to keep the follower out of the gully, and Vanishing Flakes could always be toproped with bomber cams. You could also TR Vanishing Flakes from Applied Magnetics with a directional in the crack. Not every climb needs to be "toprope ready."

On the other hand, San Ysidro's popularity requires some new thinking on the part of would-be choppers. People DO toprope, and the damage caused by hundreds of ropes can be greater that the damage by a couple of bolts. This can be seen by the deep rope grooves in the rock at the top of Orangahang (Maybe the anchors that got chopped were attempting to address this). I also worry about the oak tree that has suffered hundreds of rappels and ropes pulled around its trunk without the benefit of fixed slings/rap rings. If anywhere needs a retro-anchor, or rap station (or just some slings) it is here.

My point? Both sides of the issue need to be considered. Not every route should be reduced to a convenient toprope route, but at the same time we need to be able to bend our own rules to help preserve our crag.

Thanks again for your effort and expense in the replacement of the manky anchors.

About the old Applied Magnetics fixed anchor:
Despite their age, the bolts themselves proved to be in decent condition. At the same time, the rock that they were in was absolutely scary. Beneath the patina, the rock was super soft and tended to remain damp for several weeks after a rain. Other than the patina itself, these bolts were essentially held in by mud.

I'm starting to learn that the greatest weakness of fixed gear in Santa Barbara is not the type of hardware or its age; rather, it's the rock itself. [Although, there is plenty of crappy gear too--including 5/16" x 3" expansion bolts all over San Ysidro.] Do not be fooled by the apparent hardness of this sandstone on its surface. Beneath the 1/4-1/8" thick patina is sandstone which is soft enough and coarse-grained enough to be scratched with a fingernail.

Climbers should be advised that there are only a very few types of fixed gear that prove solid during tests when placed in rock as soft as ours. Even a traditional climbing-specific Fixe wedge anchor has very little holding power in such conditions (they actually break the rock inside the hole). Glue-ins and Fixe Triplex expansion bolts are your only reliable bet. Every thing else (meaning most of the fixed gear in SB) should be treated with suspicion.

During the week of March 20, there was a significant rock-fall event in the main descent gully at San Ysidro.

In this event, at least 30 cubic feet (3,000-lbs?) of rock fell from high in the descent gully, from opposite the start of "Scrub Job." It is obvious that a considerable amount of instability remains and that smaller rock falls are happening regularly. A refrigerator-sized chalk-stone at the top of the gully (8 feet below the large oak tree) appears to have been undercut and could release.

Fortunately, falling rock has thus far tended to stay in the gully and does not appear to immediately threaten climbers on any of the major routes--with the possible exception of climbers at the bottom of "Great Race." Be extremely cautious when using the descent gully.

The right bolt on top of Peels of Laughter has a nice wobble to it. I'm guessing people have been toproping Great Race off of it and the way the bolts are set up this puts a nice force on the right bolt.

Someone who has more experience bolting want to check it out?

Matt, even if they're using an equalized anchor, rotating the chainlink on the right bolt to Great Race puts some nice leverage on the bolt. I don't know if this was the problem or if its the expansion business, either way...

On August 15, 2006, I pulled one of the anchor bolts atop Peels/Great Race straight out of its hole with only moderate pressure. The bolt was a 1/2" wedge bolt!! It has been replaced by a Petzl Bat'inox glue-in.

I think most people are aware of the inherent dangers of our sport, but I appreciate the reminder to evaluate fixed protection with a wary eye. I also appreciate efforts to replace unsafe bolts and anchors at our crags. The vigilance is admirable, but I am getting a little weary of the hysterical warnings about mortal danger and unsafe conditions on every climb. After 15 years of climbing on the Central Coast, it’s a wonder I am still alive! Please, leave a little adventure and discovery to the whole experience. Evaluating the conditions and making one’s own decisions are part of the process. As I have ranted before, not every climb needs to be “fixed” or needs to be toprope ready. If someone wants to replace bad anchors, great. If it is best to set a directional to eliminate a short pendulum, great. But let us figure something out on our own. Some of us enjoy that learning process.

I get tired of the sanitization of every crag so that is more palatable for mass-consumption. This trend is very erosive. For example, from “Face Lift” at San Ysidro: “The position of the bolt was moved approximately 4 feet to find harder rock in which to place the bolt and an easier stance from which to clip.” While you are at it, might as well add some more bolts or chip some holds to make it easier to climb.

All of these “safety improvements” (along with scads of photos, moving bolts, exaggerated warnings, etc.), appear to be an attempt to bolster a guide service. Now I understand why many of the classic lines at San Ysidro have begun sprouting retro-bolted toprope anchors.

Please consider how your actions may negatively impact climbers not included in the list of clientele.

Excerpts from Anchors Away
by Duane Raleigh. Climbing Magazine, October 1992.

Anyone wishing to see the complete text, please contact me. Non-clientele will be required to pay a large fee ; )

Someone filched the bolt hanger and nut from one of the three bolts at the top of Orangahang.