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Gibraltar Rock
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Klingon 
Ladder, The 
Mid-Face 
Nose, The 
Self Reflection 
T-Crack 

Klingon 

5.9 R

   

FA: Unknown (pre-1960)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 433 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 9, 2006


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Diego Navarro has a crux encounter with "Klingon" ...


Description 

This route pulls through the large alcove and overhang on the left-hand side of the main Gibraltar formation.

Start next to "the Nose." Climb a crack to a large alcove. The crux of the route climbs the steep face left of the corner. The corner itself is very off-width and very hard. Pull the roof on the left side for full-value or bypass the roof to the right.

The middle of the route is marked by a large ledge. A second crux is pulling up off of the ledge onto tiny face holds (5.8/5.9). From here, runout face climbing (5.6) leads to the top of the formation.

When top-roping, be very careful. The route is almost exactly 100 feet long and the base of the cliff falls away on one side.


Protection 

Gear (tiny to 4")

The top of the route is protected by a single bolt and either medium sized gear or a slung boulder.



Photos of Klingon Slideshow Add Photo
Simone nears the end of the crux sequence of "Klingon."

Simone nears the end of the crux sequence of "Klin...


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 7, 2006

On July 6, 2006, the anchor bolt atop this route was replaced. The new bolt is a 13mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

By Prezwoodz
Nov 29, 2008

Climbed the offwidth crack portion on upper area which you list as very hard. I didn't think it was too hard. Probably 10b or so. Big cam to protect the crux but its not really to bad and I thought it was one of the more enjoyable sections of the climb pulling out through the roof.

By veedublvr
From: ?, Ca
Mar 29, 2009

Seems a little odd to only put one bolt at the anchors no matter how bomber... Either way thank you Matthew for taking the initiative to replace many of the anchors and bolts in the area.

By Evan1984
Nov 2, 2009

There are ample opportunities to sling things and place gear to back up the bolt. I always bring some long pieces of webbing to setting up Tr at Gibraltar