Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Gibraltar Rock
Show routes:
Select route...
Klingon 
Ladder, The 
Mid-Face 
Nose, The 
Self Reflection 
T-Crack 

The Ladder 

5.6

   

FA: Rickert (1954)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 95 feet
Views: 372 page views

Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 9, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

Not exactly the most flattering name; nonetheless, a good route. The Ladder follows the obvious system of cracks on the right-hand side of the main Gibralter formation.

Step up onto the face, 5 feet right of an obvious crack. Climb up a few moves before traversing left to join the crack. Follow the crack until reaching an alcove and a large overhang. Traverse right or left around the roof using a decent ledge for your feet (5.4) OR pull directly up the right side of the overhang using insecure jams in the off-width crack (5.6/5.7). Either way, follow the crack to the top.


Protection 

Medium to large gear (1/2" to 4").

Gear anchor--although some climbers use the bolts atop Mid-Face and clip a piece of gear in the crack as a directional.



Comments on The Ladder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brett Brotherton
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 16, 2008

Haven't done this on lead have done it on top rope so maybe thats the difference but I find the roof to have a perfect fist jam which gets you to good face holds.

By veedublvr
From: ?, Ca
Mar 29, 2009

I would seriously recommend that you TR this climb. All the placements I got (a #3 Camalot down low,a #2 Camalot in the horizontal, and a .25 in a small pod near the top) sand profusely poured from when I tested the placements (just a bit sketchy in my book don't know about yours) not to mention there are 2 or 3 large blocks (one as big as small refrigerator) that look like they might come off sooner than latter. Also knocked some loose rock on my belayer from breaking holds, exercise caution & wearing a helmet might not be a bad idea. I am this close to giving this route a bomb if it weren't for the view from the climb.

By Brett Brotherton
From: Arvada, CO
May 3, 2009

I didn't think the gear was that bad, you can get a couple pieces in the crack on the lower half then a bomber 3" piece in the roof crack, then after that it is pretty run out I think I put a piece about 10-15 feet above the roof and ran it out to the top from there, after the roof it can't be more than 5.3.

I don't remember seeing any death blocks either and on that route I think the rock is quite solid. One thing to be careful of is not climbing too soon after rain as the rock will be weaker.

By Nick Sullens
Jul 17, 2009

I thought it was a a pretty well protected lead, there are a decent amount of possible placements, just use good judgement about where you place