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Face Lift 

5.7 R

   

FA: Rick Mosher and Joe Roland, 1975
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 90 feet
Views: 532 page views

Submitted By: Jon Hanlon on Feb 19, 2006


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Santa Barbara local Pat Shourds takes a solo-strol...


Description 

This route begins at the obvious flake between Applied Magnetics and the descent gully. Climb the flake to a bolt (alternately, you can climb the 5.10a face left of the flake past a Leeper hanger). Easy friction leads to a second bolt. From this second bolt, the route continues straight up to a third bolt near the "Too Mucking Futch" trough. A traverse and a very long sling is required to gain the fourth bolt. I prefer to forego the third bolt in favor of keeping a more direct and aesthetic line to the fourth bolt. This makes it a little more runout, so use your judgment. From the fourth bolt, diagonal up and right to a triple bolt belay in a dish.

After the belay, head up and left to the gully (passing 2 bolts), or up and right to a hole and a second bolt, eventually passing two more bolts on the final headwall (my book calls this variation 5.9, but I believe it is 5.10a).

From the first belay one can also angle right to a large hole to climb "Scrub Job" or "Chavez/Mosher."


Protection 

Marginal pro can be found on the route just before the first belay. Gear placements and a large oak tree can be found for an anchor at the top of the second pitch



Add Photo Photos of Face Lift
Face Lift topo: <br /><br />Green Line: standard route;<br />Yellow Line: 5.10a/b variation;<br />Orange Line: Tigger Treat variation.

BETA PHOTO: Face Lift topo:

Green Line: standard route@SEMIC...


Andy belays from atop pitch-1 of Face Lift.

Andy belays from atop pitch-1 of Face Lift.

Another way of doing things: lately, when I am taking inexperienced climbers up Face Lift, I climb the pictured variation.  This variation involves pulling up early on the first pitch and belaying from a comfortable ledge.  The second pitch bypasses the usual belay stance altogether and climbs straight up from the route's fourth bolt and passes another bolt to gain an obvious ledge with trees.  While this is seriously runout for the leader, it is much less likely to produce a serious pendulum for the second.  I believe that this variation follows the upper portion of the route known as "Tigger Treat" (5.8) in the Edward's Guidebook.

Another way of doing things: lately, when I am tak...

Maura cruises the 5.10 second-pitch variation of "Face Lift."

Maura cruises the 5.10 second-pitch variation of "...

Another view of the 5.10a crux of Face Lift's second-pitch variation.  Right on Andrew!

Another view of the 5.10a crux of Face Lift's seco...

Coralee Wray heads up the left-hand (5.10a) variation to the start of Face Lift.  Fun and sequential climbing leads past small features.

Coralee Wray heads up the left-hand (5.10a) variat...


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 25, 2006

When deciding which bolts to clip, be sure to consider the health and well-being of your second. The sequence of bolts that leaders use often makes this route more seriously runout for the second than the leader.

Remember, you can always clip a bolt, climb to the next bolt, back-track, and clean the previous bolt.

[I'm not specifically commenting on Jon's stratey of skipping the 3rd bolt. It's the 4th bolt that I'm thinking of. The line from the 3rd to the 4th bolt is dead horizontal. Jon's strategy likely aleviates my concern. I clip the 5th bolt, down climb and back-clean the 4th.]

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Feb 25, 2006

Not sure how skipping the 3rd bolt, thereby eliminating a traverse and pendulum for the follower makes it more "runout for the second," but ok.

The route really is not desperate, especially for the follower.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 23, 2006

The second lead bolt on Face Lift was replaced in April, 2006. The bolt that was pulled was a 5/16" wedge bolt (which would have held less than 2,000 lbs when brand new). The new bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

There are many more of these 5/16" bolts at San Ysidro. All should be treated with great caution.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 15, 2006

The third lead bolt on Face Lift was replaced in August 2006. The new bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex Expansion bolt. The position of the bolt was moved approximately 4 feet to find harder rock in which to place the bolt and an easier stance from which to clip.