Tim Coates, owner of Real Cheap Sports in Ventura,...
Description
The Fire Crags consist of two boulders that were discovered after the Painted Cave fire swept through the area in late June of 1990, uncovering them from the surrounding chaparral. Randy Judycki established it first as a TR area until it cleaned up. He enlisted the help of Santa Barbara local Mike Colee (long "o", long "e") to establish most of the lead routes in 1992. "It was a mess to clean up," Colee remembers.
"I spent much of my time the first two years building the trail and cleaning the routes," recalls Judycki. "Since the rock is soft sandstone and it went through a very hot fire, [it] was cleaned extensively so no large blocks would fall on people".
There are more than a dozen sport routes, the longest (and best) about 50 feet in length. It's easy to knock out all or most of the routes in a half day. Bring about 8 draws and a camera - the view is great!
Randy currently serves as the Outdoor Education Director for the Dunn School in Los Olivos.
The following route numbers correspond with a topo found here.
Burnt Boulder 16. Europe Revisited (5.6) - 2 bolts to anchor, 20'. 17. Tester (5.9) - 3 bolts to anchor (shared with Europe Revisited), 30'. 18. Short Shot (5.8) - 3 bolts to anchor, 30'. 19. Bent Brain (5.8) - 4 bolts to anchor, 40'. 20. Jensen's Jugs (5.10b) - 4 bolts to anchor, 50'. 21. Movin' Out (5.11b/c) - 5 bolts to anchor, 50', chipped holds. 22. Grib Dat Hole (5.11a) - 6 bolts to anchor, 50', chipped. 23. Finger Fit (5.11b) - 5 bolts. 24. Face the Seam (5.10a) - 3 bolts to anchor, 35'. 25. Black Crack (5.9+) - 4 bolts to anchor, 35'.
From Santa Barbara, take Hwy 154 (San Marcos Pass) toward Santa Ynez; turn right at Painted Cave Road, and head up the road for about 1/2 mile to a hairpin turn with a pull-out on the left. Park here. Follow established foot trail for 5 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fire Crags:
Grib Dat Hole 5.11a Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Just went climbing here over the weekend (7/15/07) and noticed that someone yanked out the anchor bolts above Europe Revisited. Is someone putting up a new anchor or just going to leave it like that?
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Sep 18, 2007
Fire Crags recently suffered a failure of the first lead bolt on "Black Crack." The bolt was a 3/8" Rawl. The rock at Fire Crags is softer than nearby crags.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Aug 5, 2008
Bolts and anchor replacement at the Fire Crags is scheduled for sometime this winter (2008/09).
Those Titanium Rock Climbing anchors can be found at Ushba Mountaineering. Titanium is uniquely inert to chemicals like salt corrosion.
I was told they became affordable due to the cheaper Titanium found in Eastern Europe. Those anchors will become the standard for Rock Climbing Anchors in Marine Environment.
They were designed to withstand the corrosion issue that is unique to those environment. Cayman Island, Thailand, Calanques (France) anchors are being replaced with those anchors due to Chloride Salt Corrosion Cracking (read the article in the link).
Also, the Glue-In (which you are using with the Batinox) is well documented to be the best option in soft rocks: http://www.saclimb.co.za/softsandstone_report.html They also describe the best configuration of the eye-bolt to use.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
Colorado Climber
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 13, 2009
Bruno, Thanks for the info.
I believe that the problem at Fire Crags is not salt corrosion. It's super soft rock. I recently removed the second bolt on Black's Crack in order to inspect it, and it demonstrated little corrosion. Even so, the first bolt on this route pulled out in a lead fall.
As such, I'm not sure that Titanium bolts would change the situation. Your idea about using glue-ins is one that I can get behind, though. Having placed them at other crags, my only thought is that it is extremely difficult and time consuming compared to dropping a few sleeve bolts in the wall. I would be very, very grateful if someone were willing to undertake all of this extra work.
A headsup, I am planning on replacing some anchors and bolts at the Firecrags sometime this summer. I plan using Fixe glueins (with links)and Hlti HIT-RE 500 Epoxy Adhesive.
Jensons' Jugs: Anchor and top two bolts
Grib dat Hole: Anchor and lower two bolts
Others: Bent Brain - maybe, anchors are loose Haven't examined Black Crack yet
Comments and suggestions?
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA May 14, 2009
Jan, I suggest getting in touch with Randy Judycki first, as I know he was also planning on replacing them. Give me a holler and I can put you in touch.
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