Applied Magnetic is one of the few moderate trad routes in the area. In true Santa Barbara tradition, the crack is more of a seam, and there are only a few good jams before the route gives way to face climbing.
The route is the pocketed crack left of the 3rd class gully and right of Vanishing Flakes.
Protection
A vaguely continuous crack for the first twenty feet transitions to slab after going around right of the bulge. Up and left there is a bolt around 2/3 of the way up the climb.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Feb 11, 2006
I would disagree with the assessment that the pro is fine on this route and would certainly not recommend it to a novice leader. While a moderate grade, Applied Magnetics is a lead to be taken seriously. A fall before clipping the solitary bolt would likely result in broken bones or worse.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Feb 18, 2006 rating: 5.8+ PG13
Agreed, this is NOT a beginner's lead--especially since the bolt that once protected the crux bulge was painfully removed in 2004. This route is once again a serious matter for the leader.
In 2005, the two-bolt anchor atop Applied Magentics was replaced with the following gear: two 14mm Petzl Bat'inox glue-ins and one 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.
The single lead bolt that protects the route was placed more than 20 years ago by Tom Adam and is not actually part of the original route taken by Chouinard and party. This bolt was part of an independent route known as "Brush Up Your Shakespear;" although, it is now universally held to be a part of Applied Magnetics. The bolt is overdue for replacement.
A very comitting lead for the grade. I would agree you may want to feel very solid at 5.10 or so before doing this one. A few decent pieces at about 15 feet. At 30 feet you get a couple really good wires which I equalized. The rest of the shit I put in wouldn't of held shit. The bolt is welcome up high as there are a few moves below the lip that you really hope everything sticks, thus the name. An all around miniadventure. Don't fall.
Applied Magnetics was a computer component manufacturing firm and was located in Goleta for many years. I worked there as an intern every summer during college. It is a fitting name for many of the moves on this scary route!
San Ysidro (Lower)
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