BETA PHOTO: Jenny At the Small overhang with what I think may ...
Description
Orangahang is located 30 yards right of the 3rd class gully, and ascends an obvious break in the bulge. Juggy moves over the bulge lead to easier slab/crack climbing.
Protection
The bulge is bolted, and then trad gear towards the top. The anchors are shared with Many Happy Returns. For toproping, bring a long sling, as the anchor is set back from the face.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Oct 16, 2006 rating: 5.7
Even though this route goes through a slight overhang, nice hand and foot holds make for a route that people of all experience levels can enjoy. Can set up a TR by heading up the gully to the left of the climb - bolts for TR.
reasonably protected without the bolts if you're so inclined.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 4, 2009 rating: 5.8
My experience has been that this route eats some beginners alive. The movement through the crux is awkward, strenuous and reachy--not the best route for building a beginner's confidence or for teaching first-timers good climbing technique.