Stacy Tellinghusen enjoys sustained and aesthetic ...
Description
Climb up and left from the belay ledge, and then end up just right of the arete. Three routes in such a small area makes it all feel a little contrived, but no worries..
Protection
The route is well bolted and has a bolted anchor on top.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 2, 2006 rating: 5.8
This is one of my very favorite routes in all of Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties (up there with "Goulara" at Wheeler Gorge). The position and exposure are nearly unmatched. The moves up the arete are sustained and interesting.
The climbing is, as the Edwards guide says, "unbelievably" well protected. A great first lead.
The top of the route sports two 12mm Fixe glue-ins which were placed in 2003. Back these up with a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt placed 5-feet back from the edge. In order to top-rope the Rapture, you'll need to clip the top 3 bolts on the route (or risk a dangerous swing into the dihedral of Lieback Annie).
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Oct 9, 2007 rating: 5.8
All of the lead bolts on this route are the original hardware, 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolts like this
Awesome little climb. Wonderful features, well protected, and fun movement. 8 protection bolts. Convenient to rap in off Lieback Annie anchors, lead The Rapture (8 bolts, could also clip one of the anchor bolts as a 9th protection bolt), then clip your anchor at Lieback Annie. 5.8 is fun!!!
i would highly recommend rapping down from the anchors to the belay base. the ash from the fires has made the walk around really loose and precarious- and with the chaparral all but gone, the drop from the belay ledge looks pretty serious. That being said, its a fun climb and challenging for the grade!