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Klingon 
Ladder, The 
Mid-Face 
Nose, The 
Self Reflection 
T-Crack 

The Nose 

5.11

   
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FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 733 page views

Submitted By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006


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My friend Doug Englekirk on The Nose, Gibraltar, S...


Description 

A short section of steep hand jamming gives way to moderate (5.6) face climbing. Certainly the steepest jams within 100 miles. When toproping, avoid falling early in the roof or potentially swing into the spike.

Approach: Hike down to the bottom of the main block and curve around towards the west slightly. You'll know it when you see it.


Protection 

The pro is good and the crack is reasonably wide. Bolts on top and another set right after the roof.



Add Photo Photos of The Nose
To quote a good friend of mine, "it sure is tough living in Santa Barbara!"

To quote a good friend of mine, "it sure is tough ...

The new high-visibility anchor atop the overhanging section of "the Nose."

BETA PHOTO: The new high-visibility anchor atop the overhangin...

Bruce Levine nears the top of arete above the Nose at Gibraltar.<br /><br />

Bruce Levine nears the top of arete above the Nose...


Add Comment Comments on The Nose
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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b

As of March 2006, the fixed anchors atop the Nose were replaced. The new bolts are a 3/8" Fixe double-wedge expansion bolt and a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 7, 2007

Hooray for the new anchor!

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.11b

Now someone has added what appear to be two 1/2" Rawls with chains at the very top. These match the new HIGHLY visible chains that now grace the wall just above the end of the overhanging crack--there always were 2 bolts and 2 chains, but the older gear has been replaced by much bigger, much shinier stuff.

By Hartley Freedman
Sep 19, 2007

I placed those bolts; they're 12mm x 75mm fixe inox triplex's. i went for a bigger chain link because everyone tr's through those anchors and i wanted to reduce dangerous wear. that's also why they're as long as they are - what i considered to be the best place for a tr anchor combined with the most solid rock. the older gear that i pulled out was not actually climbing bolt material - there was no expansion mechanism. it was just two 3/8 x 6" grade 5 hardware store bolts screwed into drywall sleeves. popped right out with the crowbar. criticism noted though - i'll bring a can of paint next time i go up.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.11b

Thanks for your time and energy Hartley.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 18, 2008

Some "old" climbers I know in town have called The Nose 5.10d for a long time. They all seem ambivalent to an upgrade to 5.11a, however. I think crack-climbing ratings are tricky anyway, especially when it comes to the hand-size issue. I know some 5.12 climbers who can't even START The Nose. Prvately, I might agree with the 5.10+ rating. I think it's about as hard as T-Crack, anyway.