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Dark Side of the Moon 

5.8

   

FA: 
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 75 feet
Season: all
Views: 163 page views

Submitted By: John Knight on Nov 11, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Dark Side of the Moon and Pump Floyd. Climb Dark S...


Description 

Step up from the large chockstone in the gulley to the first clip. Place some small pro below the overhang then step up while you clip the bolt above the overhang. Make the bolt protected mantle move and work your way up past 2 more bolts. The mental crux comes at bolt 3 as you step left. Once you reach the top rap off or TR Dark Side (5.10) or Jeff's Crack (5.9). Both are left of DarK Side. The upper pitch has nothing harder than 5.6 but provides a nice way to get to the top of P-Wall. After you make the top of P-Wall, work your way up to Sunnyside (5.9) and cruise to the summit.


Location 

Starts on top of the very large chockstone lodged in the gulley. Go up over the roof. Yes, it's only 5.8!


Protection 

Four (4) bolts, a small cam and a medium cam. Bring a couple long slings. The upper pitch can be protected w/both bolts and cams.



Photos of Dark Side of the Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Theron properly demonstrating that climbing really is fun. <br /><br />Theron is just approaching the roof.

Theron properly demonstrating that climbing really...

Theron cleaning the pro that you place just before making the roof move. Use a Blue Alien if you got one!

Theron cleaning the pro that you place just before...

Theron going over the roof!

Theron going over the roof!

Up, up, and away...

Up, up, and away...

Nothing but, well...butt. <br /><br />btw, does he really need all that stuff hanging from his harness???

Nothing but, well...butt.

btw, does he really ne...



Comments on Dark Side of the Moon Add Comment
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By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Dec 1, 2008

Is this a new line, or is it Motor Mouth with a new name?

By John Knight
Nov 21, 2009

Bolts have been recently removed from this route by John Dalbey.

btw, in response to the previous comment from Jon Hanlon. This is indeed a new route and does not conflict with Motor Mouth. Motor Mouth is the large, dirty, loose crack about 25' to the right. It is not possible to climb this route and use the Motor Mouth crack for protection.