BETA PHOTO: Oh My! (5.7 PG13) is located on the detached pinna...
Description
This route has a series of physical and mental cruxes. The first crux comes after clipping the 1st bolt. Head straight up or cruise a bit left for an easier time. Place one or two cams under the big block. Be sure to place long runners on them to reduce rope drag. Make a big step up and right as you mantel onto the block (2nd crux). Step up and place a red alien in the lower solution pockets about waist high on your right. You might get a gold alien in the upper pocket. Without the alien, the route would probably get an R rating. Reach up high and search for big rails. Move up and clip the 2nd bolt. Make a step up and wander left across easier ground toward an old, rusted leeper hanger. Clip this with a loooong runner then move right out to the arete. Reach high and right to clip the final bolt and follow the arete to the anchors. For an interesting variation, instead of clipping the final bolt on the arete, go straight up after clipping the rusty leeper. You can place pro beneath the detached flake.
After leading this climb, go climb Spring Route (5.8R) or Dark Side of Moon (5.8). Both Spring Route & Dark Side offer various top rope options.
Location
This route follows the arete on the detached pinnacle on the right side of P-Wall. Take the P-Wall trail to the base of P-Crack. Hang a right and cruise up to the pinnacle. As soon as you see the pinnacle, drop down to the right. You shouldn't have trouble finding the first bolt.
Protection
Mixture of bolts and cams. Four bolts (1 old leeper!) and 2 cam placements. You'll need a red alien for the solution pocket. Bring long slings for the cams and old, rusted bolt. Anchors with "courtesy clips" on top. You can easily set this up as a top rope if you don't mind making a couple 5.5, unprotected moves up the back side of the pinnacle.
Looks like the first bolt is gone now! Don't know how it came out or was removed, but there is an obvious "patch" where the bolt was. It's not like there was a crack to protect next to the bolt. That bolt was on a blank face. More timid leaders, such as me, appreciate those bolts. I wish people would stop the chopping.
I noticed it as well. It appears to be John Dalbey (acting unilaterally). He has removed at least 4 others routes as well as anchor bolts from some climbs. Including a climb put up in 1988 (K-B Trip).
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