Start 6' to the right of a large oak tree at the far right end of the Cracked Wall, directly below 2 bolts. An alternate, significantly easier start, traverses in from 8' to the right of the direct start. Climb the slabby face past several shallow, finger pockets up to twin horizontal cracks and your first gear. Work left along the ramp to clip the first bolt. Continue up into dish, clip second and final bolt, and continue up past a horizontal seam to roof and a good gear placement. Pull through the roof crack (fun!) to a 2-bolt anchor.
For those not wishing to lead Lama, a TR can be set by scrambling up and right of the cliff.
I had the extreme pleasure of belaying and witnessing Mike Morley on-sight Lama yesterday afternoon. This was a true on-sight of the route, something that I would guess is a fairly rare occurrence.
Way to go, Mike. What a proud lead!
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jul 12, 2006
I've probably climbed this route 2 dozen times in the past year, and it always seems challenging and deceptive. There are two distinct ways to climb past the first bolt, as well as two distinct options just past the second bolt. The trick is finding the path of least resistance, which is not easy. Otherwise, Lama is going to feel like the hardest 5.10 on the planet!
By Marty Brenner From: Durango, CO Sep 16, 2006 rating: 5.10-
Great route. I'd give it two more stars if it was just longer.
Cracked Wall
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