This area has access issues. Please read the details below.
Description
* News as of Jan 2006 - This area is now CLOSED to climbing! **
*This area is very sensitive! Please climb carefully - the lichens on the rock are hundreds of years old and are being studied by biologists at CampSLO. We are treading dangerous relations with this area because of the destruction on the part of the climbers. **
This is the chunk of rock that presides of Camp San Luis Obispo as you head north on Highway 1 between SLO and Morro Bay. Many people might think that since the military has it, it's off limits. Not so!! Just call ahead [(805) 594-6510] to make sure they won't be target practicing and drive on in . . . the military folk are a bit confused by we climbers arriving, so don't be surprised if they act a bit confused about what to do with you.
But the rock! It's spectacular! Same kind of thing as Bishop Peak, but you're probably the only one out there, the approach is a bit longer and intuitive and what awaits you is the awesome wave rock formation. If you can climb hard, you are in paradise.
Be exceedingly nice to the folk you find on the base. They are keeping the access open as a service. No one says they have to make the rock available to the public.
Getting There
Drive north from Highway 101 on Highway 1 (the road from 101 is Santa Rosa, becomes Highway 1 as you drive out of town). As you come down the hill and around the bend, the large "Camp San Luis Obispo" signs are your clue to turn left onto the base. Tell the friendly men in uniform your intent and receive their directions. Don't mess around while you're there: it may be a reserve base, but those guys carry guns, doncha know.
1. It takes a bit of advance notice. 2. Call Range Control to get access. I called 594-6510 & talked with Sgt. Ruiz. He was very helpful.3. To get your car in, you need current license, insurance, and registration. 4. To get people in, you must have current photo ID for everyone.5. Your vehicle and contents are subject to "random searches". I can confirm this 1st hand. Fortunately, it was my Mom's mini-van so we didn't look like much of a threat. Be smart, don't have any questionable substances or articles in your vehicle.6. Turn off your radio and be respectful when you ask for access. These guys carry loaded M-16s and side arms. Don't make them nervous! It's a priviledge to be able to get in there to climb after Sept. 11th. It was closed completely for about 2 years.7. You can only get in while Range Control is staffed. You can get out anytime (check out at the gate), but you can only get in from 7:30 to 3pm on Saturday. I'm not sure about the rest of the week. We tried to get in during the week about 4:30 and couldn't (that's when my vehicle was "randomly searched").8. You need to sign a liability waiver. I think you only need to do this once a year. You get them at Range Control.
It's really not as hard as it sounds. Be respectul, keep your vehicle clean, and keep your paperwork up to date & it's no big deal. I think the more the gate folks and security folks get used to seeing climbers, the easier it will be to get access. Lichen is a problem on a few climbs, but the poison oak was not as bad I as expected. It's a great place to climb and with a little persistence and flexibility, you'll be able to get in.
I'd like to know the origins of the lichen story.I think this is a practical joke that got taken seriously by someone.The military uses smoke bombs, jeeps, water trucks, flares, etc. all over the hill and at the base of the rock. I can't believe that they'd be concerned about lichen. It's the same lichen that is on all of the sisters. Somehow I don't see it ever becoming extinct either.Ed Sampson said that lichen has grown over Inner Sanctum in a matter of 20 years so I don't think they're as sensitive as some think. Please don't spread rumors.Oh, and I've been there 100 times and never have I or my friends ever been searched.This is some of the best quality climbing in the county. If you go there, you'll become a believer.
Believe me, you are subject to search when you go in the gate. Ask Ken & Theron, they were with me. After 911, it's a whole different world. One of my friends works out there & says he gets searched about once every other month. Not bad odds if you're there every day.
Kristin Wrote: "**This area is very sensitive! Please climb carefully - the lichens on the rock are hundreds of years old and are being studied by biologists at CampSLO. We are treading dangerous relations with this area because of the destruction on the part of the climbers. **"
I'm curious about this lichen story too. Where was that from Krisin?
Lichen does grow slowly, about 1/4" per year according to some research. So if you figure that Ed Sampson climbed & cleaned (?) Inner Sanctum 25 years ago, then the lichen could grow about 6.25" since then.
I wish it would stop raining so I could go climbing instead of sitting here discussing lichen...
-It "only" took 20 years for it to grow back on Inner Sanctum (seems like a long time to me). -Just because something is not endangered does not make it ok to destroy it. -Just because you have seen it, does not mean it is not endangered (I saw some Vernal Pool Fairy Shrimp in Paso Robles the other day). -Land managers care about destruction of resources, even if it isn't endangered.
Seems to me the best approach is just to tread lightly and it won't become an issue...It is so easy to let stuff be, and you never have to worry about jeopardizing access or wonder if you are doing the right thing.
I'm not a biologist but I did find that there are several species of lichens in our area, quite a few actually in the Los Osos / Morro Bay area. And everything is connected...lichens create habitat for other plants and animals. Do a search on "Tardigrades."
And you know those bitchen succulents we all have seen growing? Those are Dudleyas...one of them could be the endangered San Luis Dudleya.
Yes, all of these species are found commonly on the cliffs, although I am not sure that the serpentine dudleya would be found in the climbing areas since it is not serpentine rock.
There are many other rare plants and animals at Camp SLO and other areas that climbers frequent around here. But whether or not they are rare has nothing to do with whether treading lightly is the way to go - it is simply a good land ethic to live by...
The origins come from a guy named Kevin Knight emailing me about my comments on this site that said something along the lines of the route being mungy and needing more climbers to clean the lichen off. I was chastised for this and told they were dangerous. There ARE folks that survey and watch the growth of plants - just because you're not interested, don't think for a moment that these other people are not. Good stewardship says "tread lightly and carry a stick clip." Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Oh, for what it's worth, John's running the site now so I don't look too often (and when you asked me about it, I was off in Indian Creek - neener neener) - it got done what needed being done - bringing people together for stewardship and route beta updating. Heck, it got people motivated to write a new guide.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jul 16, 2005
A confirmation of John Knight's comment 9.7.2004: we too had our vehicle thoroughly searched the other afternoon on one of the 'random' inspections. It took about 10 minutes and was no big deal. Just make sure to have all your paperwork (everyone's driver's licenses, vehicle registration, and proof of insurance) in order and be cooperative and compliant with the officers on duty and you should be okay.
Cerro Romauldo
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
