Rock Land

Cabrillo Climbers,

Vickie suggested a reorganization of the anchors at Rockland. Please take a look at the photos Vickie took and add your comments. Keep your comments to the issue or adding or deleting anchors and not oriented toward individuals or their climbing abilities. I've seen more than my share of "nasty comments" in the past. Post your comments before August 21st. If you care about this issue, please show up at Rockland at 10am on August 21st. I'll be there with a drill, glue, and bolts. We'll either remove bolts or add bolts (or both!) as needed. Please attend or comment!

I'll post Vickie's comments & mine in a separate post.

I'd also be interested in any thoughts you have on whether this is a good way to address fixed anchor issues.

Thanks!

john

These are actually Vickie's comments that were sent to me (John Knight) in an e-mail.

Being that Rockland is almost exclusively a top-roping area (only one sport route) it makes a lot of sense to me and many others that the face bolts placed in January 2004 be removed for reasons of safety and visibility. Just last Saturday I saw a group who chose to not use the bolts placed on the face of Step Aside. Instead they used yards of webbing anchored to plants and boulders that extended out over the edge. It was hideous. They did use one of the anchor bolts, but it was primarily used as a directional.

In January of this year, I took on the previously avoided task of reorganizing the top rope anchors at Cabrillo. I discussed this with several of my climbing friends and most people agreed the previous bolting was basically a mess. My goal was to consolidate as many of the bolts as possible and move the anchors closer to the edge to avoid long runners. I ended up finding that most of the bolts were "hardware store variety" and improperly located. A basic "CF" of bolts placed over many years. I decided to pull them all & start over. I removed & patched about 18 bolts and replaced them with the anchors you see today (with one exception). Dave Sweetwater asked that I add 2 more bolts back from the edge so that newer (less experienced) climbers would have a back up while they were connecting into the top rope anchors over Chimney Crack. These bolts were added about 2 weeks later.

Turns out some liked the re-organization and some didn't! If you care about this issue, please take a look at the pics & the rock (get outside!) and post your comments. We'll meet on Aug. 21st at 10am at the rock and make any changes. Please come!

John

My only comment is that I personally like TR anchors back from the edge for safety reasons. Long runners don't bother me too much. I actually like not being right on the edge while setting up the anchor. You are right about one thing, those TR anchors were one big CF smorgasbord.

BTW, take a look at the new TR on The Beach at Wagon Caves, they are well back from the edge for a good reason...that rock with all the sand, etc., is slippery.

If I remember correctly there is a really fun 5.11ish TR just to the right of chimney crack. I don't know if it ever had a name.

Dave...that route would be "Step Aside Direct". The beginning is so smooth I never could figure it out. I watched a 5.13 climber struggle on it and he never could figure out the lower half.

John...I have a Bosch Annihilator if you want to use it. Only have 3/8 bits though in case you were planning on 1/2 inchers.

Jody,

I'm all set w/supplies. Thanks for the offer though.

JK

Thanks Jody.Yeah, I remember there were some pretty hard moves at the bottom. I guess it could be harder than .11, I just remember I really liked it.

I'm glad to see that climbers in the community are using a board like this to try and come to consensus on issues such as anchor placement in this area. It obviously doesn't reach everyone, but it's a good start and the more it gets used, the more people will find there way here.

Vickie Garagliano sent me this email:

_ I have heard the name "Thin Ice" used for the_ 5.11a/b climb between_ Chimney Crack and Step Aside at Cabrillo's_ Rockland area. The big hole_ on the right is off line and has been referred_ to as a sucker hold._ This information is handed-down and has not_ been confirmed.

Regarding the anchor reorganization:

I personally think John did a decent job with reorganizing the anchors. Since this area is a popular TR area, esp. for beginners, I can see the argument about the bolts being away from the edge - BUT, the anchors where they are now are closer to what I consider accepted practice for anchors - no runners required, just safety consciousness. An extra set of anchors would help the clusterfuck that occurs there, especially when groups like Poly Escapes bring people out there, but is it ethical to do that? I guess that's what this forum continually asks, though, eh?

Why would it be "unethical" to put in an extra set of anchors. It would alleviate crowding, make the climbing safer, and considerably reduce the suck factor of setting up the anchors on top. Rockland has a history of being a "begginers" area. So why not continue to keep it safe and easy?

I personally like the new anchors for Step Aside. The problem is now I need something for the top of Kermit Crack. What to do?

The anchors for Chimney Crack are awesome once they are set but it is a total pain getting them to that point. A little farther back and use extension slings might be a better idea.

The West Corner, Potato Head, & The Fly desperately need their anchors reorganized. The two bolts that are there are set up all wrong.

I have used Rockland for large groups in the past. One more set of anchors would be welcome in my opinion.

Anyone interested in seeing the anchors at Rockland moved, or seeing them stay where they are, should plan on showing up there this Saturday (8/21) at 10:30 a.m. This will be your last chance to provide any input if they get moved. Speak now or forever hold your piece!

We had a good turnout today (about 10) to make some adjustments to the Rockland top rope anchors. We removed a few bolts and repalced a few bolts. I think everyone will be pleased with the nice, new 12mm Stainless bolts. Let me know if you have any further comments/ideas. Thanks everyone that showed up!

john