1st Offense 

FA:  Joe Potter & Ryan Bello - 1990 Type:  Trad, Sport, TR Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 104 page views Submitted By: John Knight on Oct 3, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Shadow Far Left Side

Description 

This route starts under the oak tree just left of 3 to Get Ready & Fat Man. The crux comes low on the route between bolts 1 & 2. The upper portion is a bit runout, but features some great climbing on solid, clean, rock. The Slater book rates it at 5.9, but I think it's more like 5.10a. Based on the interesting variety of climbing on this route, the solid rock, and the great views; I gave it 2 stars (1 more than the Slater book).

The route currently sports some manky looking 5/16" button heads. However, I've pulled a lot of these 5/16" buttonheads (doing replacement work) and found them to be pretty hard to remove. They definitely should be replaced, but in the meantime, I'd say they're pretty decent. If the bolts scare you off, try top roping the route from the Swallow anchors or the Fat Man anchors. Bring long draws or a cordalette to help with rope drag.

If you top rope this routes, swing left & you can also top rope Swallow & THC.

Protection 

3 draws, small cams, & an anchor set up.