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Black Streak 

5.10b R

   

FA: Ed Keefe & Menzo Baird (1989)
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 110 feet
Views: 131 page views

Submitted By: John Knight on Sep 12, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...


Description 

To find this route, just look right of P-Crack. It follows the obvious "black streak". This route shares the middle and upper P-Crack anchors. If lead from the ground, this route is over 100'. You can top rope the route after climbing P-Crack. To top rope, your climber will need to climb up about 20' of 4th class in the BIG crack that leads to the 1st P-Crack anchors (or bring a 70 meter rope!). The bolts are currently the original quarter-inchers placed by Ed & Menzo in 1989. They include some home made hangers to boot. Lichen adds another interesting element. This could be a really great route if properly cleaned & re-bolted.


Protection 

If led from the ground, bring a bunch (8?) of draws and small pro. The lower section is lead with gear, while the upper section has 3 bolts.



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By John Knight
Sep 12, 2004

Does anyone ever climb Black Streak? I was on P-Crack today (retrieving Katie's "leaver biner") and was noticing how manky the bolts were. The bolts are 1/4" and original vintage by Menzo & Ed Keefe in 1989. The home made hangers also add to the character. I'd be happy to replace the bolts (and clean lichen) if there was anyone out there that would actually climb it. If you've climbed it (on lead), let me know what you think the grade is. I've only done it on TR & think it's at least 5.10a.

If there are any other routes you'd like to do, but the manky bolts have been holding you back, let me know!

thanks,

john

By Jody Langford
Sep 13, 2004

"I'd be happy to replace the bolts (and clean lichen) "

Watch it John! Remember what happened the last time you "cleaned lichen"?!

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Oct 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b R

Desperate!

I would be too scared to lead this thing even with new bolts! As it is, I wouldn't even hang a houseplant from those bolts.

I tr'd it expecting "5.9+" but I would agree with the "at least .10a" opinion. I guess I would call it 5.9 plus one.

By vincent L.
Apr 9, 2008
rating: 5.10b R

The route is pretty clean these days. It is runout and a few of the bolts are old and don't inspire much confidence.

It is a pretty good route though with good moves on mostly solid rock.

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Apr 10, 2008
rating: 5.10b R

I am happy to see the .10b consensus...I thought it was just me!