BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...
Description
This route is between Hanging Teeth and Slime and Dine. The upper portion merges with the Cave to "P" route. It is at the center of the P Wall face so an ascent of it captures the essence of the wall. The first 40 feet(approx) has no useable protection that I could find so be prepared to be run out at 5.4. The start is directly below the first bolt (approx 50 feet up). There is a moderatly angled apron with a hairline fracture in it and leading to the right of a rt-facing dihedral. Above that the grade steepens on good holds and 10 feet below the bolt are some shallow but bomber cracks for tri-cams, or other, to protect the rest of the way to the bolt. From the bolt traverse right to a splendid crack(the crux but well protected). The crack is just right of a brown water chute. From here continue straight up to find 2 more bolts and a new belay/rappel station(not sure why these are here) on the left side of the large hanging flake. I prefer to continue up the left-facing dihedral and belay in a small alcove not far from the summit. Close by are anchors at the top of Letterman. The varied terrain and airy environs make for a great climb.
Protection
4 bolts, tri-cams, stoppers, CU, to 2 inches. Protection useable for shallow placements and 3-pt contact is always prefered at Bishop's.
Although this route has a moderate grade, it is not for the emerging 5.8 leader. It is very runout on lichen covered rock. You need to really have your head together to do this climb. I replaced the old 1/4" button heads and leepers w/bomber stainless bolts so at least the bolts are good. If this route was cleaned a bit, it would really be a great route. The new, upper anchors allow the climb to be top roped w/a 60 meter rope. Don't try it with a 50m, you'll rap off the end! To set up the top rope, you need to climb around the back of the upper P-wall and rap down from the top of the wall. There were slings on the rocks at the top. Better bring some long slings to rap from just in case. The climb has great views & an airy exposure. You can also top rope several nearby climbs from the new anchor.
JK is right...better have your head together for this one. It takes lots of gear, but most of it is just "ok" and pretty far between. Pro gets better after the first bolt.
I was able to make it all the way to the Letterman anchors with a 60M rope.
In my opinion something has been taken away from this climb with the installation of toprope anchors 30M up. If you are motivated enough to scamble to the top and make 2 raps down P-Wall to set up a toprope, you are probably motivated enough to lead it.
I agree with Jon Hanlon's comment (2-9-05) that the chain anchors about 30 meters up detract from the climb. The section above this anchor is as asthetic as any section on the rock and I just don't see why they would get used. There is also a hugh crack system useable for anyone on lead within feet of the anchor. I know who put them there and applaud that person's work in making the area safer and more useable, but this anchor should be removed and used elsewhere.
I climbed this with a friend of mine, Crystal, did this route on a foggy day (not the weather) in 1999. The idea was born from a drunken night of bad ideas. At the time, the route had very bad bolts and a lot of moss, and not anchor to speak of. I believe I just kind of wedged my body in a crack near the top to belay.
David, You can rest assured the old "Garing" bolts have now been upgraded thanks to ASCA. I would NOT recommend climbing this in the fog. That would make the lichen extra slippery. Good for you for doing it & making it back to tell the tale.
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