Gold Rush/High Noon 

Great route. A direct start right of the first bolt raises the grade a letter. That bolt needs to be replaced John... Ken... Be careful leading above the the first bolt. It's class 4 for about 20 feet without pro. If you fall making the second clip you will hit the deck.

I agree with Scott's comments - it may be a bit stiffer than 10b if you take the direct start to the right of the first bolt. I took the weeny variation and went left where it is easier using a big flake as both a hand and foot hold; however, this flake is extremely loose and exhibited some movement when I yarded on it last Saturday! Also, once you've gained the initial ledge between the first and second bolt, you can get in a small cam with a long runner to protect the traverse over to clipping the second bolt. The moves aren't hard, but it's a little awkward and the deck potential is bona fide. In the final appraisal, this is a great route in a fantastic location. I, for one, also believe that restoration activities in this area would be very appropriate given the impacts to vegetation that have occurred. Rock climbers need to exhibit a strong land stewardship ethic if we expect to continue be in the good graces of the land managers.

Very nice climb. Take care with the loose flake...

Man do i wish this thing was twice as long as it is. great route with fun reaches between small incuts at the end.

Great Climb!! This is currently my favorite on BP.

The first bolt looks like it might need to be inspected closer. Fall on the first mantle can be pretty rough and there is definate deck out potential.

Mark Jolliff (FTR) now lives in Joshua Tree where he works as a rock guide.

http://www.uprising.com/guides.htm

The old Tucker/Steele guidebook has this listed as 10d, citing a "variation" above and right of the first bolt. Done this way, it's certainly 10c/d, which might account for the difference in ratings.