The crux of my Mid-life Crisis Photo Copyright Vic...
Description
Your "mid-life crisis" begins down in the Poison Oak infested gully below Pete's 5.12. Use the aid bolt on the left for decent and security. Start on a small slab reaching for a good ledge and the first bolt. An easy crank prepares you for clip two. An awkward mantle under a roof is the crux. Take your time its all balance and the holds are there. Cruise up the pinnacle to the last bolt and anchors and don't miss the views!
Bob Hill, Jon Hanlon & I climbed Mid Life Crisis today. I think we all concur, that this is a really great route. The pulls over the overhangs are mentally challenging but there are good feet and hands when you need them. The clips are well placed & easy to reach for an average (5'10ish) person. It's still a bit crumbly in spots and has a few loose flakes (I pulled on one & fell when it ripped). However, after a few more people climb it, I think it will be a classic. If you're not up to a lead, it's relatively easy to set up a top rope by working your way around to the left of the higher pinnacle. Wear long pants & watch the poison oak. One last thing, the views are awesome!
Saaweet short little route !! yes it is only about 35 feet high but you get super steep jug hauling on bomber rock with a beautiful top out . well bolted and safe to. the 30 second approach does suck because you have to step on plants and it is a little technical but worth it all in all .....
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.10a
3 out of 4 stars for quality, but the the inevitable poison oak will make me think twice before repeating this one.