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Cracked Wall
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Only Way To Fly 
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Western Airlines 

Only Way To Fly 

5.10c

   

FA: unknown
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 293 page views

Submitted By: Chris Nosti on Jan 21, 2004


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Description 

The route starts on the left side of the dark water marks and tiger stripes located in the center of cracked wall. It follows the somewhat odd shaped crack up the wall and then traverses left to the anchors once the wall stops overhanging. It is a fun lead and the re-bolting now offers the possibility of top roping both Curly's Shuffle and Western Airlines.


Protection 

The route was recently rebolted by Joe and Ken so it goes all sport now. It's a good lead and is very well protected. There are six bolts and the anchors at the top also include biners that hang from the chains so you can just clip and lower. (check for wear first)



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By Dave Bevan
Mar 8, 2004

6 bolts! I seem to recall this being a one bolt climb!

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Mar 9, 2004

This route is more fun if you take a small rack and climb all the way to the anchors directly above.

By Chad Hinkle
Jan 12, 2005

Maybe its just me, I think it is way easier to bring a small cam to use instead of clipping the new 3rd bolt.

By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jan 18, 2005
rating: 5.10c

Chris has it wrong. The new bolts are supposed to be an entirely different route. You are supposed to bring cams up for that route.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 6, 2005

While leading this route earlier today, I had an interesting encounter. As I sunk my left hand into the crack to the right of the 3rd bolt while pulling through the crux, I heard the sound of *something* in there which apparently was not particularly fond of me shoving my mits into its proximity. Gingerly, I peered in to see my abductee. Not a cricket, not a bee nor wasp, but rather a very pissed off BAT was showing all its teeth and clearly not happy with my intrusive digits. I'm not sure if this bat has made a permanent home here or was just visiting, but a heads up nonetheless.

By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Aug 9, 2005
rating: 5.10c

Gosh, I hope it's not permanent. I love that climb.

By vincent lopez
Sep 27, 2005
rating: 5.10b

generous bolts , no bats , good pulling, makes for one enjoyable route ...