Don Freeman on the 3rd Ascent of the Fat Man. He ...
Description
The Fat Man (5.8) sits right next to his antithesis, the Thin Man (5.9 really run out). Climb to the top of the gully left of Thin Man and start off the small block. The Fat Man sports six, well placed bolts on 80'(+/-)of clean, solid rock. The climb can be done as a single pitch or you can continue on up to Eat Mo' Possum (5.6). From the same anchor you can easily top rope Three to Get Ready (5.9). Other options include a move to the right to top rope Thin Man (5.9R) or a move to the left to top rope Swallow (5.7). The Fat Man makes a great climb for a new leader. Most of the moves are 5.7 with a couple of 5.8s thrown in to make it fun. Great views for both the belayer and climber are a plus! Bring a 200'/60 meter rope if you want to rap this route.
Protection
Six or seven draws(I can't remember - bring extra so you can clip with either hand), small cams or nuts if you'd like to supplement. Bring a couple extra draws to set up the the anchor.
This climb is a welcome addition to the Shadow Wall. After a fun start, the climbing becomes a bit more interesting around the fifth bolt. This route will get better and better as more people climb it -- as of right now it's a bit caked with lichen. Also, there are seven bolts on this climb, not six.
This climb, "Fat Man," was established on rappel with a power drill, a significant and controversial departure from the traditional style (ground-up, hand-drilled ascents) at Bishop's Peak. This practice should be strongly discouraged. There's no reason this climb couldn't have been done in a style consistent with local history and traditions.
This is a one-move wonder, and I wonder why that first bolt exists. Way too close to the ground and the second bolt. It's fairly fun, but requires some route finding and avoiding huge mud patches. It's a nice line. Good first 5.8 lead.
Just to clear things up.The start to Fat Man is also Easy Street. However Fat Man continues up to the shared anchors for 3 to Get Ready and Fat Man. Easy Street traverses left on the low angle slab to the anchors for 1st offense
Definitely 7 bolts. When you drill that many bolts (on rappel) it's hard to remember. You can even move left after bolt 7 & clip the top bolt on 3 to Get Ready for 8 bolts total! Anyway, bring lots of draws.
Several people I talked to thought the crux was harder than 5.8. I think a key hold may have broken off. Any thoughts on the grade?
Still a fun climb. I enjoy it every time I climb it.
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