Desperado 

With a 200 foot rope, it is possible to link Desperado and Fields of Fire into one, long killer face climb, ending at the Thin Man anchors. Have your belayer stand on the block at the base of Desperado, because it is a full 200 feet! The advantage of traversing over to the Thin Man anchors is that then you can rap to the base of Three to Get Ready, etc. and make the ground in only one rappel with a short, easy downclimb down the gully on the right hand side of Shadow Rock. This method also provides you with a "whirlwind tour" of the entire slab, as you start on the far right and end on the far left - a cool perspective. I guess Slater's book calls Desperado 5.9 and Fields of Fire 5.8, so I would say that the link up is no harder than 5.9, but the rope drag gets heavy and stamina becomes an issue - my feet and calves were burnin'!

This is a great moderate lead for an emerging leader. The grade is pretty solid 5.8. You can make it 5.9 by moving left and straight up after the 2nd bolt. You can also make it 5.7 by skipping the 2nd bolt and moving around right on the ledge. If you do that, be careful! You can hit the deck if you miss the clip on bolt 3!!!! It's probably safer to clip bolt 2 and make the 5.8 move. The bolts are well placed but may be a bit strung out for some 5.7 leaders. Better have you head together. The rock is solid & the lichen has long ago been removed.

Consider extending your enjoyment by climbing Fields of Fire (5.8) in one long pitch. Clip the Desperado anchors with a long draw and climb to the old, upper Shadow anchors. Again, clip a looong sling. You'll start to feel the rope drag if you don't. Move up & right from old Shadow anchors and look for that bolt about 15' or 20' up. Stay on solid rock, just to the left of the munge. You can't see the anchors till you're almost on top of them. Just follow the left edge of the munge, work right a bit & you're there.

I noticed the Slater guide shows the route extending straight up from Desperado. A bit more desperate off the anchor if you try that variation, but a more direct climb w/2 bolts.

Some great views. Bring a 60 meter rope and a ton of draws! There are 5 bolts on Desperado and 2 on Fields of Fire. You'll also be clipping anchors so bring a few extra draws.

john

To Clarify: Fields of Fire goes straight up off the anchor of Desperado. I know because I bolted it and named it.If you go to the old Shadow anchors and then up as John says, you're doing the second pitch of Shadow, not as good and lots of rope drag, that's why we did Fields of Fire.